REM MODEL 11 CYCLE PROBLEM
I JUST BOUGHT AN OLDER REMINGTON MODEL 11( THE ONE WITH THE SAFETY FORWARD OF THE TRIGGER ). I CANT GET IT TO CYCLE. THE BOLT AND BARREL ARE LOCKING UP AND WONT DISENGAGE AT TIMES. WHEN THE BOLT IS MOVED REARWARD AND RELEASED BY PRESSING THE BUTTON AND ALLOWED TO CLOSE ON ITS OWN THE BOLT LOCKS UP WITH THE BARREL I MUST USE SONETHING TO KNOCK IT FREE. WHEN I CAN GET IT TO RELEASE BY PULLING THE OPERATING HANDLE IT REQUIRES A VERY HEARTY TUG. ANY HELP IS APPRECIATED.
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Since no one is replying I'll try and help. Take the barrel out. Shoot a load of WD40 into the bolt,locking lug, bolt operating handle and between the barrel extension and receiver. The magazine tube should be clean and unlubed. Reinstall first the recoil spring,next the bevelled ring with cup forward for high base brass and to the rear for low base brass, next the bronze friction brake, next the barrel, the stock and retaining nut. Tighten so the barrel extension is about 1/32" forward of the receiver and try cycling. If it is still stiff,sacrifice a low base shotshell by carefully using a corkscrew to empty the shot,the wad and powder. If it easily chambers and the primer fires,set the friction brake as described above for low base shells and try one loaded low base shell single shot. If that doesnt eject or ease up the gun,it has to come apart for inspection. 0 -
Please don't use WD-40 on guns...Not a good thing.... Use a lubricant designed and formulated for guns.. 0 -
Use the WD40 for a light lube/flush/degunker/deruster. Thats what we're trying to do here. I dont know where you get your WD40 applications info from. It cant be from experience or their label. 0 -
WD-40 is a parifin wax based product when the carriers evaporate all thats left is a parafin wax filmIt's an OK product for breaking things loose and freeing them up but should be followed by a good lubricantI prefer using a little Kroil to do the same job (and it makes a good barrel cleaner also) Kroil at least is a petrolium based product 0 -
THANKS FOR THE INFO. ILL TRY AND SEE IF THIS WORKS. 0 -
My reply from earlier didn't show up, imagine that. Here goes, it's a shot in the dark but I have seen it before. Are the operating rods, which are attached to the rail that the bolt rides on still intact? Look where they join the framework which slides back and forth under the forearm. If they are cracked, right where they join the front part, it will cause extremely hard function and intermittent problems with the action. I have seen it before but it is rare in my experience. 0 -
THANKS FOR THE INPUT. I GOT IT FIXED. WHERE THE BARREL AND BOLT LOCK UP THE SPACING WASNT GREAT ENOUGH. A LITTLE FILLING ON THE BARREL SOLVED THE PROBLEM. THANKS AGAIN. 0 -
In my reply, I suggested a test for too little headspace. This would be a givaway that either breechbolt, locking bolt or barrel had been replaced and not refitted. That could be a result of lost parts or someone shooting 2 3/4 magnums that broke parts. Get some machinists' blue or a felt tip marking pencil and blacken the locking surface of the barrel extension slot, cycle the action and inspect. You can see if your filing job is even. 0 -
v35 THANKS FOR THE INFO. ILL DO THAT. 0
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