Primer question
have some primers that im going to sell on gb. need to know how to designate them by their #. in other words the # = small or large rifle or small or large pistol? i have rem.#2 1/2, 5 1/2, 6 1/2, and 7 1/2. also have shotgun primers no. 69, .57, and .97, if you could please tell me what they are used for. 12, 20 guage, ect. thanks
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what would happen if by mistake use large magnum primer in a 308 win? friend of mine did that last night and loaded 50rds that way using imr 4320 powder 0 -
I have NEVER paid attention to the brand of primer called for in the load book. For that matter, I have paid scant attention to the brass brand being called for. My loads have always been middle of the road to begin with and carefully working up if I was seeking an accuracy node. My paramount consideration is accuracy since I never had a game animal notice the difference in 100 FPS MV; dead is dead. 0 -
+1 on BPOST 1958 same here. 0 -
Since reloader safety states we should always take data and reduce it by at least 10% then work up from there every time we try a new load, the changed primer brand should not push you over the safety margin... unless maybe switiching a SP magnum primer instead of a standard SP in a tiny .32 auto case or something along that line...that might exceed the margin and cause some damage to a gun or shooter.
In any event, take it slow and easy, and you'll be OK.0 -
Different primer manufactures do have slightly different mixtures in there products. For example, Winchester large rifle primers produce a larger spark than most primers and are better suited to ball powders. But for the most part, most shooters and firearms aren't good enough to notice the small different primers make in their reloaded ammo.
Using a magnum primer may cause problems when a load calls for a standard primer. Never use a large pistol primer in a rifle or rifle primer in a pistol. And as bpost1958 says, start low and work your way up.0 -
For a safe way to test any new or changed component, with the minimum use of scarce supplies, see my recently published article, here:
http://www.reloadingroom.com/index_files/95S.htm0 -
Thanks for the info guys. After months of waiting I finally got some reloading components and will load a few up today. I've never done it before so I'm really looking forward to it.
GH1[:)]0 -
Only exception would be substituting magnum primers when the recipe calls for regular primers--and vice versa. You can still use them (magnum), but the recipe changes. Just my 2 cents worth..... 0 -
+1 for what Skeedaddy said. 0 -
Yeah, I knew not to swap regular & magnum without adjusting powder levels, I was just wondering how different brands will affect performance, if at all.
I got about 350 rounds loaded & plan to try them this weekend. I have a few different load strengths I'm working with and I'm curious to see how they work.
I'm using Accurate #2 in both the .38 & .357 with Rainier 158gr FMJ flat nose bullets. I shot about a dozen off just to see if they'd work before I loaded up a large amount.
GH1[:)]0 -
++1 on BPOST1958. I've reloaded since 1974, and have yet to give a damn about case or primer brands! Not one mishap in the last 35 years. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by gregoryhart1
Yeah, I knew not to swap regular & magnum without adjusting powder levels, I was just wondering how different brands will affect performance, if at all.
I got about 350 rounds loaded & plan to try them this weekend. I have a few different load strengths I'm working with and I'm curious to see how they work.
I'm using Accurate #2 in both the .38 & .357 with Rainier 158gr FMJ flat nose bullets. I shot about a dozen off just to see if they'd work before I loaded up a large amount.
GH1[:)]
I don't have much to add that these guys haven't already said except when making a new load I usually make a few ( like 100 or less) just in case something isn't right ( it doesn't fit in the mag, gun malfunctions, high pressure what ever)0
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