Progressive press and brass length question
Earlier today to kill time I was looking at different progressive presses and it got me thinking. Because you size the brass and move it on the the next step without measuring it how do you know it's not to long? Not that I'll be getting a progressive anytime soon, just curious. Not only do I not need one, but I don't have room for one either. Thanks.
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Hello a lot would depend on what cartridge you are loading . I have loaded over 300,000 rounds of 45ACP and for the most part straight walled pistol cases get shorter not longer. I use a taper crimp die and small differences in case length plays no part in loading match grade pistol ammo when taper crimped. I think most people that load Rifle ammo on a progressive press do so for Volume and if cases need trimming they do so before starting to load . Also be aware that a powder drop in say a 223 Case almost dictates you use BALL powder and you must really slow down the cycle time of operator handle to get full charge in the case. I for one do not believe you can increase the speed of loading MATCH grade rifle ammo very much by doing so on a progressive press I think they are great on straight walled cases rifle and pistol. 0 -
Thank you. I haven't loaded pistol yet so that explains that part. So if you were loading blasting ammo for a 223 or 308 would you just trim to the min length and then feed them through? I'm guessing the resizing wouldn't make them increase in length to where they would be above the max. I haven't ever measured a fired case before and after sizing but I may have to do that to a few tomorrow. I don't feel like getting my hands dirty again today. Thanks for the education. 0 -
Here is how I do my rifle brass.
Tumble
Load die plate with:
Stage 1 lube die/decaper
Stage 2 sizer
Trim/swage/other case prep
Tumble
Prime either by hand or on press
Load second die plate with:
Stage 3 powder
Stage 4 seat
Stage 5 Crimp if needed
I have done a few thousand rounds like this and has worked well for me. My loads shoot as good as the ones I do on my single stage but in doing them in "2 steps" it takes me about 1/3 the time.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Nwcid
Here is how I do my rifle brass.
Tumble
Load die plate with:
Stage 1 lube die/decaper
Stage 2 sizer
Trim/swage/other case prep
Tumble
Prime either by hand or on press
Load second die plate with:
Stage 3 powder
Stage 4 seat
Stage 5 Crimp if needed
I have done a few thousand rounds like this and has worked well for me. My loads shoot as good as the ones I do on my single stage but in doing them in "2 steps" it takes me about 1/3 the time.
I am not familiar with a lube die/ decapper. Could you please provide more info on this. Lubing cases to go into an auto bullet feed hopper is always spotty at best.0 -
quote:Originally posted by swill
I am not familiar with a lube die/ decapper. Could you please provide more info on this. Lubing cases to go into an auto bullet feed hopper is always spotty at best.
Well here is a link to them and apparently RCBS does not think they need to describe them, https://shop.rcbs.com/WebConnect/MainServlet?action=CatalogSearch&langId=en_US&storeId=webconnect&catalogId=webconnect&screenlabel=index&pageSize=15&beginIndex=0&resultType=3&orderBy=1&searchDescription=lube+die&searchType=1
Not sure what you mean by spotty. These dies have a felt ring that get saturated with lube that comes in from the top of the die. Has worked well for me. One of the felt pieces dried out and shrank a bit on me but I have new ones coming so no biggie.0 -
How do the lube dies work? What types of lube can be used and how is it added to the die? 0 -
quote:Originally posted by swill
How do the lube dies work? What types of lube can be used and how is it added to the die?
I use RCBS case lube and there is a hole in the top side of the die. There is the outer die body and an inner sleeve. The lube is trapped between these to pieces were it "falls" down onto the felt ring. The felt rings are for the caliber so as to not hit the neck of the case and just the body.0
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