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bullet casting

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10 comments

  • jonk
    Well the MINIMUM is an iron pot and a heat source, mold, something to flux the metal with, and a way to lube the bullets. You MAY need bullet sizing dies depending on whether or not they chamber and feed properly as cast.

    I'd recommend starting with a Lee electric pot and ladle. For a little more money you can get a bottom pour furnace which speeds things up. Lee molds are fine and are 80% of what I use; Lyman is a step up but pricier. Lee push through sizing dies and their tumble lube are great for handguns and ok for rifles up to about 1400 fps; after that you will need a lube sizer to fill the grooves with lube. Rcbs or Lyman make these.

    The biggest starting step though would be to buy Lyman's Cast Bullet Handbook, and check out http://castboolits.gunloads.com/

    For what it's worth I started out with a coleman camp stove, old pot from a flea market, no sizing stuff, and tumble lubing.

    I cast 80% of the bullets I shoot. Mostly from wheel weights. It takes some practice but can be very rewarding- and if you have a source for the metal, costs next to nothing after the set up costs.
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  • bpost
    Go to www.castboolits.gunloads.com That site is the Mecca for cast projectiles. I have been casting for over 30 years and it makes shooting so much more enjoyable and cheap!

    Do a search on this forum for cast bullets too! There are several threads on the subject.

    Have fun!
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  • pulsarnc
    Thanks for the advice wiil let you know how things turn out
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  • budman46
    pulsarnc,
    today, most important in casting bullets is a good supply of lead, wheel weights and/or linotype. i've about a ton, mostly wheel weights, which are fine for velocities to nearly 2000 fps with gas-checked bullets and a liquid alox lube. as long as your alloy is zinc-free and you observe a few guidelines, you'll create a fine product, but be careful, a little zinc can ruin a lot of casting metal.

    i agree with jonk in recommending lee equipment ...30 years ago lyman and rcbs were pretty much it, but today, they're awfully pricey for a beginner...actually, i find that i've pretty much abandoned the more expensive tools in favor of lee's stuff. with a bit of care, the non-commercial caster csn do a great job with it.

    here's a post i submitted sometime back that may help:

    [url][/url][url][/url][url][/url]http://castboolits.gunloads.com/showthread.php?t=20453
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  • grady mitchell
    be sure to get you some tin to go with that ww metal
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  • brier-49
    You don't need tin in wheel weights,already there.WW are # 2 alloy.
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  • jonk
    Wheel weights aren't quite #2 alloy but are harder than soft lead, containing some tin and antimony.

    As has been said, good for mild velocity loads up to maybe 2000 fps.

    The tin really makes it flow better, and while it does harden some, antimony is better for that.
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  • bpost
    quote:Originally posted by pulsarnc
    OK I need everyones help .Im an experianced handloader who is thinking of getting into casting to save money ....yeah right .... Anyway some thoughts as to the minimum equipment needed and such would be appreciated I need to cast for 45 lc,45acp and possibly 30 cal .friend runs a garage and tire service so wheelweihgts are easy to come by thanks in advance


    You can cast bullets rather soft for the 45ACP and the 45LC. The MV is low enough that leading is not an issue IF YOU SIZE THE BULLET TO THE BORE AND USE GOOD LUBE!

    The 30 cal needs to be harder, best bet is to buy old Linotype metal from an old local printer or get the alloy direct from the manufacturer at the link I provided above. Creative scrounging will produce a lot of lead for you. As far as equipment. IMHO Lee makes better casting stuff than they do other reloading equipment. The Lee bottom pour pot works good and the 6 cavity aluminum molds are inexpensive, yet produce good bullets. PERSONALLY, I do not like tumble lube. I do not want lube all over my bullet noses to attract dirt and on the base to neutralize powder grains. Used lubra-sizers are popping up and may also be had at the link above. They are fine.
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  • par0thead151
    where can i get tin from? a scrap yard? ebay?
    thanks
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  • dtknowles
    I have always used solder as my source of tin. Originally I used 50/50 bar solder. Now I use lead free solder that is like 98 percent tin and 2 percent silver. Don't just go down to the hardware store, shop on line for a better price.

    I just use wheel weights and solder for almost all my bullets. About 8 pounds of wheelweights and a half pound of solder. For my 30-30 or hot loads in .357 or 9mm largo I water drop harden.

    I use the tin mostly to help the lead flow and fill out the mold better.

    Tim
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