Reloading for gas guns...
I have a 742 in 6mm Rem ( the one that had the problem with the Hornady ammo several months back)....anyway, I have shot some remington factory 100gr corlokt through it this weekend and it worked fine. Brass was fine...
Now to the questions
-What powder can you suggest to use in it? I am assuming that it may be different from the "best" powder for a bolt gun due to pressure and burn rate. I was thinking of IMR-4064 (I also have RL22 and W760 on hand) and Sierra 100gr SPT. I have the Sierra manual but can't find any advice of this nature. (Never mind...I found the Gas Gun/Service Rifle Section. It says Powders around the 4064 burn rate are suitable.)
-To FL size for my bolt guns, I adjust the die until the bolt closes with the tiniest bit of resistance. How do I know the correct die setting for my autoloader? Watch the bolt as it closes and keep adjusting 'til it locks all the way? This makes sense, I just want to be sure.
If you have any other tips for handloading for an auto loader, I'd sure like to hear them!
Now to the questions
-What powder can you suggest to use in it? I am assuming that it may be different from the "best" powder for a bolt gun due to pressure and burn rate. I was thinking of IMR-4064 (I also have RL22 and W760 on hand) and Sierra 100gr SPT. I have the Sierra manual but can't find any advice of this nature. (Never mind...I found the Gas Gun/Service Rifle Section. It says Powders around the 4064 burn rate are suitable.)
-To FL size for my bolt guns, I adjust the die until the bolt closes with the tiniest bit of resistance. How do I know the correct die setting for my autoloader? Watch the bolt as it closes and keep adjusting 'til it locks all the way? This makes sense, I just want to be sure.
If you have any other tips for handloading for an auto loader, I'd sure like to hear them!
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With the autoloader full length resize completly. If it still wont close you MAY have to go to a small base die. (not likely) but some autos don't have the camming power to chamber a fat case.You could try to sneak up on the perfect case as you do in your bolts but I never chance it, as cold can slow the cycling of you auto. Like in winter when you are hunting[:(!][:(] 0 -
Almost exactly what I read in the manual. Thank you. No "crush fit" for the semis.
What about crimping? Necessary or no. I go to some "reloading specific" forums and (as usual) some say "yes" and some say "no".0 -
I gently crimp almost all of my hunting loads. The exception would be prarie dog loads here only one is in the gun at a time. Again it all comes back to reliability. I use a Lee taper crimp or factory crimp die and gently crimp hunting loads to ensure no foul ups occur that can ruin a hunt, jam a gun or otherwise pi$$ you off.
Even bullets that have no cannelure can benefit from this as cold and heat can affect neck tension that can cause all of the above. Don't try this with a roll crimp die as it can buckle the neck and actually cause problems.
The key is don't go nuts. A little crimp will assure that there are no sharp edges that may affect chambering and generally help to add a little uniformity to your hunting loads.0 -
quote:Originally posted by B17-P51
I gently crimp almost all of my hunting loads. The exception would be prarie dog loads here only one is in the gun at a time. Again it all comes back to reliability. I use a Lee taper crimp or factory crimp die and gently crimp hunting loads to ensure no foul ups occur that can ruin a hunt, jam a gun or otherwise pi$$ you off.
Even bullets that have no cannelure can benefit from this as cold and heat can affect neck tension that can cause all of the above. Don't try this with a roll crimp die as it can buckle the neck and actually cause problems.
The key is don't go nuts. A little crimp will assure that there are no sharp edges that may affect chambering and generally help to add a little uniformity to your hunting loads.
worked miracle's in my 300 win mag
I do it with all my reloads now0 -
As you can tell, I'm a little apprehensive about this. Alot of warnings in the manual about getting things right or possibly blowing up the gun. It seems pretty straightforward though.
I'm a little nutty about double checking every step before I proceed anyway so, I should be fine.
I accidently over crimped my first 25 WSSM loads but caught them before I finished and readjusted the die correctly.
Thanks for the help and the tips!0 -
I assume it may be like my Rem 7400 in 308.
If so:
It was designed with a weak hammer spring and will only detonate soft primers, no CCI primers, Federal and Winchester have worked good for me. I've replaced the hamnmer spring and the new one is just like the old one.
It has a very tight chamber and full length small base dies are required. Screw down the die until the press binds slightly when adjusting.
Powders in the middle of burn rate for your caliber should work fine, I like 4895 in 308.
Don't load to the max, work up from minimum loads until it functions reliably. My 7400 likes pretty hot loads.
Next time get a Browning BAR, it avoids most of the problems above, has a better trigger, and is more accurate or get a HK91 and it will feed anything.0
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