For those who load .308...
Hi!
As soon as I get the remainder of my order from Midway (backordered,) I will begin learning how to properly load .308 for my Remington 700.
I would appreciate any and all suggested combos of bullet type (manufacturer and grain,) powder, primer (and brass, if the manufacturer makes a difference there) for effective, accurate .308 loads. Would be interested in hearing your personal preferences.
Also, there are SO many reloading manuals out there - would any one (or two) be better than others? (Speer better than Hornaday, etc?) Or are they all pretty much alike?
Thanks for your suggestions and input.
As soon as I get the remainder of my order from Midway (backordered,) I will begin learning how to properly load .308 for my Remington 700.
I would appreciate any and all suggested combos of bullet type (manufacturer and grain,) powder, primer (and brass, if the manufacturer makes a difference there) for effective, accurate .308 loads. Would be interested in hearing your personal preferences.
Also, there are SO many reloading manuals out there - would any one (or two) be better than others? (Speer better than Hornaday, etc?) Or are they all pretty much alike?
Thanks for your suggestions and input.
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popgun,I have been reloading for 45 yrs and have found that the manuals vary a lot on what they call minimun and maximun loads. Nosler almost always underloads, IMR is all over the place when compared with other manuals.Personally, I like the nosler. It gives the most accurate powder used as well as the most accurate load found.Hodgdons manual list loads for their powder as well as alliant,winchester,and IMR.So I consider theirs the most cost effective. SO buy two or three currant books(some are available online for free just download)and stick to the basics of safety in reloading and you should have a great time ROLLING YOUR OWN. I have a 308 win in a Ruger ultralight. I use winchester cases, I find remington to brittle. Federal primers are hard to beat. Hornady and nosler are the bullets I use most. One load I use is 50grs of H380, win cases,fed primers and a 150gr winchester power point bullet. This load gives inch groups and is a devastating deer round. It fills the case so it is compressed but shows no pressure signs.Hodgdon says 51 grs is max. Just this old shooters 2 cents. 0 -
I like the Lyman manual for the various components listed. My target load for my Reminton 700 PSS is 168 gr Hornady BTHP in a Black Hill match brass case, 40.5 gr IMR4895 and a CCI BR2 primer. 0 -
Go to www.loaddata.com and check out all the ones there. 0 -
PG,
E\What is the twist rate on your barrel???
That is important on where to start on bullets weights.
For match loads a 1/10 twist prefers 168 and 175gr HPBTM
A 1/12 twist will prefer the 150 and 155gr HPBTM bullets.
these are start points but there is a big difference in what performs well in your barrel and it is the twist rate that determines that.
Wulfmann0 -
Thanks so much for the info so far.
Wulfmann,
It's a 700 VLS, and the barrel twist is 12".
Again, thanks for the help and info - and I will appreciate any more that anyone has to offer.
[:)]0 -
I'll make a bet. I bet that reguardless of what you feed it. If the load and bullet are reasonable from 125 to 180 gr that rifle will shoot better than you or I can hold it. The 700 VLS is an unbelieveable shooter and not to fussy about its dinner. 0 -
50grs of H380, win cases,fed primers and a 150gr winchester power point bullet.
I like the H380 for the way it flows in the powder disp.
only I had to cut my load to 47.0 gr. didn't like what the case looked like. speer max load is 49.0 gr.I have an older lyman book
that has a max load of 53) gr.0 -
Trapper,
quote:that rifle will shoot better than you or I can hold it.
Especially the way I shoot! [;)]
quote:The 700 VLS is an unbelieveable shooter and not to fussy about its dinner.
That's why I got it. I wanted the best - even though my "aiming eye" (right) was damaged a few years ago, so I'm hardly the best shot anymore. But I wanted the best.
Even using cheap factory loads, it gets me in or near the bullseye.
So am anxious to see what kind of increased accuracy I get with my own reloads.
Thank you - and everyone else - for your suggestions and info.
[:)]0 -
Most of the older books and especially speer and nosler have a tendency to under load. there are a lot of older military rifles out there that won't take a full power load.The load I described actually came from the 45th edition of lymans books. This book is in the 1970 range, it is a great place to start if you can find one. It gives the accuracy load and the factory duplication load for each bullet weight and caliber and I have found it is pretty accurate. It says 53grs is the max for H380.The accuracy load is indeed 47 grs but speed is only 2695 with a 150 head. Factory dup is 48 grs of IMR 4064.. IMR 4895,ball C2,and H3031 are also listed as accuracy powders. 0 -
44.5gr varget, win brass, 210M primer, 168gr pill (I use the a-max) 0 -
my favorite 308 load is 51.5 gr of winchester 748 and a 125 gr speer tnt bullet. this load will normally put 5 bullets through 1 hole at 100yds. not alot of recoil either. if you are deer hunting substitute the 125 gr remington bullet for the speer.drops them in thier place. 0 -
hotbot, I use to say speed kills, the faster I could get it going the better. I was young and foolish, now I'm just foolish. I liked speed until I made my first 35 whelen. 250 gr 2500 fps equals one really dead deer or bear. I still hunt most of the time with a 243 win or 257 roberts but the whelen was and is one hell of a gun out to 200 yds.So when I load for deer now, I ask is it accurate and is the speed reasonable. The 125 in a 308 or 30-06 was a deadly combo but a little faster and a little more meat damage than is needed but if it works for you go to it. 0 -
Again guys, thanks!
[:D]0 -
POPGUN
I would have to bet along with bugmantraap. I have a 700 VS with a 1/12 twist and it's scarry sometimes with the way it shoots. One thing I started out with was low end loads (308 was rechambered to 308 Ackley so I had to fire form some loads). My loads ran just above 2400 fps with 180 grain Hornady spire points, which is a mild load, but cut ragged five shot groups at 100. Ued the fire form loads during deer season and had excellent kills with minimal meat damage. Not the greatest for long range shooting but just fine for the Virginia landscape I hunt on. I do have beefed up loads using 190 grain Berger bullets (MOLY) over 46 grains of WW748. No pressure signs and still hold half MOA.
As far as loading manuals? I like Hornady. Not just for the loading of Hornady bullets but because for the HPBT Berger bullets I can get my starting loads from the HPBT bullets listed in the manual (bearing surface is very similar for both bullets makers). I have most of the manuals available - Hornady, Barnes, Speer, Nosler, Hodgon, Sierra. I have, and still do, relied on them all from time to time even though they do vary a bit for the same cartridge. But to start out, Hornady and Nosler would be my choices if I were limited to two.
Brass? Winchester without a doubt. Have found too many Remington with flow pattern on the necks and, for a match shooter, weight to weight variances between cases is a bit much.
Bullets and bullet makers abound. Hornady, Nosler, Sierra, etc. all have good offerings in 30 cal that are suitable for everything from whistlepigs to wonder bucks of any size. I have used a variety and they all work well with proper bullet placement. Get yourself a manual or two, read up on what's available for what you plan to hunt and start developing your loads. Have fun and be safe.
Vic0 -
When you get a chance I would recommend you roll a few using Barnes TSX 130 gr. A fairly mild load will get them moving right along and once you find the "sweet spot" for O.A.L. they can be SCARY accurate (for a hunting bullet) The TSX's are lights out on whitetails! 0 -
crypto. I use the Hornady book a lot also. It is more realistic in its loadings.It will sometime state a max load that is 3-4 grs higher than anybody elses.I have yet to fire a load from Hornady that showed any pressure signs. 0 -
bugmantraap
Unless I am using Federal or mil brass, I agree. Never had anything go wrong with standard brass. The other stuff, I just load a little less in the boiler room and go shooting.0 -
I use both 150 winchester powerpoint bullets and when out deer hunting the 168 gr silvertip ballistic point bullets that are by
combined technology, this is a cooperative venture of nosler and
winchester and can be obtained through midwayusa.com. I have been
using IMR 4895 with very good (1/2" to 3/4" groups at 100 yards) results. I have also been tinkering with IMR 4064 because I have a
pound or so sitting around. I like to use winchester cases the 168
ballistic tip and 43.5 grains of IMR-4895 and Federal large rifle 210 primers. I seat the bullet with an OAL of 2.70 but that is because my rifle has a very tight chamber. You could go out to 2.80. This load runs through my Remington 798 so well that it performs like a tack driver.0 -
My thanks again to everyone who has responded with such good info.
Things have gotten kinda hectic for me the past month - including a family emergency; so I haven't had time to even think of reloading.
But will get into it eventually, when I can.
Plinker,
Thanks for the offer of direct advice, and I will contact you as soon as things calm down for me, and I have the time.
Thank you all once again.0 -
popgun,
I'm a big fan of the Sierra reloading manual. Even though I've gone to several different kinds of bullets. I still reference it for starting loads of weights of bullets.
As far as an Accurate load goes, I've found that in a full 24" barrel that H4350 Extreme works well. Work up from the minimum (the book references 43 gr. for a 168 gr. bullet) and see where your accuracy is most consistent. I'm like JustC in that I like Hornady A-max's for the .308 more than I prefer Sierra's. The Sierra's are very accurate but have such a short ogive in comparison that they fall off in velocity for long range.
Now, that's a target load. You may be interested in a hunting load. Do the same thing except use a Nosler 165 gr. Accubond. They also have a new 168 gr. BT. You might give it a look-see as it is supposed to have a better BC than does the 165 gr. BT.0 -
quote:Originally posted by sandwarrior
popgun,
I'm a big fan of the Sierra reloading manual. Even though I've gone to several different kinds of bullets. I still reference it for starting loads of weights of bullets.
As far as an Accurate load goes, I've found that in a full 24" barrel that H4350 Extreme works well. Work up from the minimum (the book references 43 gr. for a 168 gr. bullet) and see where your accuracy is most consistent. I'm like JustC in that I like Hornady A-max's for the .308 more than I prefer Sierra's. The Sierra's are very accurate but have such a short ogive in comparison that they fall off in velocity for long range.
Now, that's a target load. You may be interested in a hunting load. Do the same thing except use a Nosler 165 gr. Accubond. They also have a new 168 gr. BT. You might give it a look-see as it is supposed to have a better BC than does the 165 gr. BT.
Pop gun
I use the Speer manual. I like 45 grains of Varget behind a 168gr speer gold match bullets I use Federal cases with cci br-2 primers if you are just shooting at targets. However do not use speer's data for Barnes bullet. I recently loaded the same powder charge behing a 168 gr barnes and it blew the primer out and broke the extractor on the gun. I talked to a barnes tech and they told me that I should be around 42-44 grs of powder for this bullet.0 -
Here is a great article on loading the 308 for top accuracy:
http://www.6mmbr.com/308Win.html0 -
Again, my thanks to all who have provided some very good info here.
Especially Mk-19 with that excellent article.
Have had a family emergency which has kept me from beginning my reloading, but I hope to get into it shortly, and the info in this thread will be a huge help to me.
Thanks again!0 -
I am loading 45.0 grains of Varget behind a 168grain A-max Bullet. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by popgun
Hi!
As soon as I get the remainder of my order from Midway (backordered,) I will begin learning how to properly load .308 for my Remington 700.
I would appreciate any and all suggested combos of bullet type (manufacturer and grain,) powder, primer (and brass, if the manufacturer makes a difference there) for effective, accurate .308 loads. Would be interested in hearing your personal preferences.
Also, there are SO many reloading manuals out there - would any one (or two) be better than others? (Speer better than Hornaday, etc?) Or are they all pretty much alike?
Thanks for your suggestions and input.
Hi popgun,
I will give you my secret .308 loads that won many matches in Michigan. It consisted of the following items....
200-300 yds
168 grain Dardas boattail (molycoated)
45.0 grains Varget
RWS primer
Winchester cases
600-1000 yds
190 grain Dardas boattail (molycoated)
46.0 grains Varget (compressed load)
RWS primer
Lapua cases
These loads were only safe in my gun. You will need to experiment to find a safe level in yours.
By the way, do you have a Precision Mic?
The most important ingredient proved to be the RWS primers. They turned a mediocre load (group size & standard deviation) into a phenominal load (sub-x group size and single digit standard deviation). They are expensive but well worth it.
I trust that this information will help you.
Matt0 -
I have had the best luck in my Mod. 70 Stealth II with Varget, Reloader 15, and IMR 4320. I load several different loads, for no reason, just cause I can I guess. My bullet preferences are Berger's 168gr LTB's and 175gr VLD's, and Hornady's 168gr Match. I did try a lot of Sierra's 168 and 175gr pills, but never could find a powder, charge, or seating depth that my rifle like, don't ask me why. The most accurate load I have found in my rifle is the 175grVLD in Winchester brass(neck-sized) on top of 42.0gr Varget fired off by either Win. LR primers or Magtech 9 1/2s. This load in "Sweet Steph" gets up to 2550 to 2600fps depending on the temp. I consistantly shoot 1/4in. and smaller(now down under .2" range) 5-shot groups with this load @ 100yds. I load the Hornady with the same brass and primers but with 43 to 44 grains of Reloader15, still haven't really figured out with charge shoots tighter. I started developing the the Hornady load for an "Economy" load and have been truely suprised with the accuracy I have had out of them. And my Favorite is the Berger 168gr LTB in Win. brass, Win LR primer, on top of 40grs Reloader15. It's on the slow side but the accuracy makes up for it. 0 -
quote:Originally posted by popgun
Trapper,
quote:that rifle will shoot better than you or I can hold it.
Especially the way I shoot! [;)]
quote:The 700 VLS is an unbelieveable shooter and not to fussy about its dinner.
That's why I got it. I wanted the best - even though my "aiming eye" (right) was damaged a few years ago, so I'm hardly the best shot anymore. But I wanted the best.
Even using cheap factory loads, it gets me in or near the bullseye.
So am anxious to see what kind of increased accuracy I get with my own reloads.
Thank you - and everyone else - for your suggestions and info.
[:)]
Back in the early 70s I was a sniper in the Marine Corps. Then I could hit a 6" circle at 1000 yards. With age my eyes have gotten bad. Now I am lucky to hit a 6' circle at 1000. Anyway my 2 cents to this post is to be certain you have no distractions while you are reloading. Ruined a S&W 29 a few years back due to a doubled charged load. This is probably the most often mistake a reloader (a new one to boot) will make. Another thing is do not fall for all the bells and wistles out there. There is so many gadgets out there to fill a pick up truck. All you need to tart is a good quality press, scales, something to debur and campher, case lube and dies. You will eventually need a case trimmer and cleaner. Rememberthat the most expensive isn't always the best to go with. But no scrimping on dies. Buy the best you an afford.
Good luck and remamber safety first.0 -
++++++++++++++1 on the best dies you can buy! The only thing that I can add to that as a must is a good set of dial calipers!
quote:Originally posted by MMOMEQ-55
quote:Originally posted by popgun
Trapper,
quote:that rifle will shoot better than you or I can hold it.
Especially the way I shoot! [;)]
quote:The 700 VLS is an unbelieveable shooter and not to fussy about its dinner.
That's why I got it. I wanted the best - even though my "aiming eye" (right) was damaged a few years ago, so I'm hardly the best shot anymore. But I wanted the best.
Even using cheap factory loads, it gets me in or near the bullseye.
So am anxious to see what kind of increased accuracy I get with my own reloads.
Thank you - and everyone else - for your suggestions and info.
[:)]
Back in the early 70s I was a sniper in the Marine Corps. Then I could hit a 6" circle at 1000 yards. With age my eyes have gotten bad. Now I am lucky to hit a 6' circle at 1000. Anyway my 2 cents to this post is to be certain you have no distractions while you are reloading. Ruined a S&W 29 a few years back due to a doubled charged load. This is probably the most often mistake a reloader (a new one to boot) will make. Another thing is do not fall for all the bells and wistles out there. There is so many gadgets out there to fill a pick up truck. All you need to tart is a good quality press, scales, something to debur and campher, case lube and dies. You will eventually need a case trimmer and cleaner. Rememberthat the most expensive isn't always the best to go with. But no scrimping on dies. Buy the best you an afford.
Good luck and remamber safety first.0 -
Thank you all for the terrific info.
Don't worry, as I plan to be careful and not rush things. When I was reloading before (LONG ago,) the worst thing I ever did was to seat one bullet into a primed - but empty - casing; and I knew I had done it just after I did it. So I plan to be careful.
I have a Lee Classic 4-hole press and Lee dies, and an RCBS powder measure which I will soon be getting a mirometer screw for.
I've been told Lee products are very good (even if not the most expensive,)so I hope they will be good enough.
I do always try to buy the best equipment I can afford.
So thanks again for all the very helpful info.
[:)]0 -
popgun, I am a big fan of Lee's Dead-Length bullet seater. I recently aquired some in Deluxe sets for my 222Rem. and 22-250Rem and repeatablity in seating depths when measuring cartridge length to the bullets ogive instead of to the tip is amazing! I always measure my handloads with a digital caliper and comparator and the first 100rds I loaded for my 222Rem. with Lee's Dead-Length Bullet seater I only had 7 rounds that were .0005"(above or below my target length. Yes that is .0005", I know I'm anal about it, but if I don't target repeatability then I can't trouble-shoot for accuracy. I still use a RCBS Competition Seater for my 308Win. and I almost always have to readjust it slightly from round to round. 0
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