New to reloading.....
...and I have a question regarding what type of dies to use. I see, on the auction side and manufacturers sites, necksizing and full length dies. I've noticed that the full length setups tend to be less expensive. I have done SOME reloading for my 22-250 using the necksizer and have had no problems.
My question is should I buy the full length set because it's cheaper or will I run into more problems with them versus the neck sizing only dies. I generally work on the KISS principle so, I want to keep things are simple as possible until I get more experience.
I am specifically talking about reloading for my 25 WSSM on this one. Any guidance will be appreciated.
My question is should I buy the full length set because it's cheaper or will I run into more problems with them versus the neck sizing only dies. I generally work on the KISS principle so, I want to keep things are simple as possible until I get more experience.
I am specifically talking about reloading for my 25 WSSM on this one. Any guidance will be appreciated.
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If you are loading for a bolt gun you can use neck sizer dies with the brass for that rifle. You need full length sizer die for semi-auto or pump and some lever guns. 0 -
Thanks, dcs shooter. 0 -
What DCS shooters said AND if you are loading for multiple bolt guns you should full length resize unless you keep the brass seperated. I full length resize all my rifle brass I always have. You will find arguments for both ways. 0 -
At some point after several firings you may find the bases have expanded to the point where you have trouble closing the bolt. That is where a F/L sizing die comes into play.
When you reload you want to push the shoulder back about .002 that will make for a good fit in the chamber. The base and shoulder is not touched by a neck die, so at some point it will become a bear to chamber the cases unless they get sized.
Redding also sells a bump die that does not touch the neck but sizes the base and bumps the shoulder back. It might be what you are looking for. As needed you can bump the shouldr back and still use the neck die for controlling the neck tension.0 -
So....would you recommend just getting the FL die set and avoid those problems altogether? Does it put extra stress on the cases using them? Will it hurt to FL size them everytime?
Sorry if the questions sound stupid but, as I said, I'm a rookie at this. I'm reloading to save money AND to get as much accuracy as I can out of my rifles. The less equipment I have to buy, and still get the job done safely and correctly, the better.0 -
guntech - You can use full length sizing dies for neck sizing. Most dies will come with instructions on how to set the dies to do this. Basically it involves screwing the die into the press until it touches the shellholder (with the ram up) and then backing the die out a little bit. This will just neck size the case. Then if the round gets hard to chamber, just screw the die in a little and full length size the case.
Since you are not reloading for a belted mag, you should get many loadings from a case whether you full length size or not. Technically, you should get better accuracy from neck-sizing, but unless you are shooting benchrest, you can get acceptable accuracy even if you full-length size. I consistantly get sub-MOA from all my bolt guns and I full-length size every time. The only thing that I neck-size for is my Contender in .22 Hornet. That is because it has a very loose chamber and it puts too much stress on the brass to full-length size.
BTW, you should always full-length size any brass that you intend to use for hunting rounds. It isn't that much of an inconvenience if you can't chamber a round while at the range. While in the field, it could be a big problem![;)]0 -
Thanks for the help. I appreciate your patience answering questions you've probably answered a thousand times. 0 -
If you try to use a fl die to neck size,hearly all of the case is being sized so make sure ot use case lube.
This is,to me,the main difference between the 2 dies...lube or no lube needed...oh,and alot less work.:)0 -
Ditto on what has been said. I often just neck size with full length dies by simply not screwing them all the way in. Sometimes I just size half the neck, even! I'd get the full length dies. The only neck dies I have are for my most common calibers, 30-06 and 8mm Mauser (but that's just me as I have a dozen guns in each). And even then I also have regular full length dies as well. That's what I'd start with. 0 -
Guntech59,
You can buy sets of dies with neck and fl sizers. One of the problems I find with neck sizing only with a fl die is that you still size down the shoulder(in not back) and still don't get the neck/shoulder junction down enough to where it fits easily into the chamber. Get both in one set and fl size about every 5th time. Use lube. The smoother the case goes through the die the less case stretch you get.
As for your shooting, if you are just hunting I wouldn't really see a need to neck size. But if you do any accuracy work with the rifle you have, I would neck size. When neck sizing make sure you get it sized all the way down to the bottom of the juntion. That way you aren't fighting your case shoulder back trying to chamber a round. If you start getting tight chambering rounds that is what is happening. You won't have any safety issues with it. I had a guy with me once who was afraid to pull the trigger based on the round being hard to chamber for that.
-hope that helps.0 -
Sandwarrior, That is exactly what I am experiencing with the last ones I loaded and I was concerned about it. I'll check them better next time.
BTW, are you the same "Sandwarrior" that posts on the WSSM forum? I am going to start working up a load for my 25 WSSM, also.0
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