Cleaning Scorched Stainless Steel Cylinders
I have several revolvers that are stainless steel. After firing them, the face of the cylinders are blackened as is the rear of the barrel and a little of the frame.
This stuff is almost impossible to remove without resorting to abrasive materials that ruin the finish of the metal.
Is there some magic solvent that will desolve this carbon scorching. I haven't found one yet. I have tried all the common bore cleaners and every solvent I can think of including carborator cleaner. I can lighten it up some but can't get back to the nice looking bare SS finish.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
This stuff is almost impossible to remove without resorting to abrasive materials that ruin the finish of the metal.
Is there some magic solvent that will desolve this carbon scorching. I haven't found one yet. I have tried all the common bore cleaners and every solvent I can think of including carborator cleaner. I can lighten it up some but can't get back to the nice looking bare SS finish.
Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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I use Iosso "Gun Brite" it is a paste and works great. I use it in several stainless finishes and have never had any problems. 0 -
I use Hoppes #9 and a bronze metal brush on those areas. They work great together. 0 -
Flitz makes a cloth that is impregnated with their polish that will clean up stainless cylinders. Do not use it on chome or nickled guns. 0 -
I use a Kleen Bore Lead Away gun cleaning cloth on my 625 after a match. It removes most of the black off the gun. As the instructions say don't use it on a blued gun, it will take the bluing off. It will also remove leading from barrel. 0 -
I second the Lead Away cloth. I cut them into 3x3" patches and one patch will entirely clean a stainless revolver 3-4 times before it needs discarding. Removes ALL of the scorch marks with just rubbing, not scrubbing. [:)] 
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I also use the lead-away cloths. I have even used some on my blued guns without much problems. Just don't rub too aggressively.
Flitz works good too. Same cautions.
Here are some other hints. Revolvers are easier to clean if you don't let the crud sit on them. Clean them promptly after shooting or brush on some solvent and let them sit while you eat dinner or whatever. They will be much easier to clean when you return.
You can also take the cylinder out of your revolver and let it soak in a jar of Hoppes #9 while you clean the rest of the gun. A simple toothbrush will usually remove the carbon after it soaks. WARNING!!!-Don't let Nickle plated guns soak in Hoppes. It will get under the nickle and can remove the plating if left in the Hoppes too long. Blue and stainless guns will be fine if left to soak, even if overnight.
I have cleaned revolvers hundreds of times and these tips will help. I often had other officers pay me or give me their ammo rations to clean their guns for them because I did a pretty good job of it.0
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