Case Annealing method.
Am browsing thru Ken Howell's "Designing and Forming Custom Cartridges"....His method of annealing;
Use a small gas torch..he says that you must heat the neck quickly to avoid heat transfer to the head.
Have a pot of tap water standing ready.
Gather up a couple Temp-Lac crayons..these are temperature sensitive crayons that melt at various temeratures...and you are wanting the 650* and 660* degrees ones.
You can use the 660 and place a line right about the shoulder area...the 650 can be placed about where you see the factory annealing mark ends.
He uses a Lee locking stud and shell holder in a hand drill..the case needs to turn slowly enough to watch the mark you made. The INSTANT the Temp-Lac melts plunge the case into the water.
You are looking for BLUE color on the case...red means you got it too hot and probably destroyed the case.
When the water heats up...refresh it.
He also mentions using a electric screw-driver..some are slow enough to use.
Use a small gas torch..he says that you must heat the neck quickly to avoid heat transfer to the head.
Have a pot of tap water standing ready.
Gather up a couple Temp-Lac crayons..these are temperature sensitive crayons that melt at various temeratures...and you are wanting the 650* and 660* degrees ones.
You can use the 660 and place a line right about the shoulder area...the 650 can be placed about where you see the factory annealing mark ends.
He uses a Lee locking stud and shell holder in a hand drill..the case needs to turn slowly enough to watch the mark you made. The INSTANT the Temp-Lac melts plunge the case into the water.
You are looking for BLUE color on the case...red means you got it too hot and probably destroyed the case.
When the water heats up...refresh it.
He also mentions using a electric screw-driver..some are slow enough to use.
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I used a bathroom exhaust fan motor and a dimmer switch. I had bushings for the various casehead dia's made and the shaft of the motor threaded for them. I placed it under the top so the shaft comes up through from underneath and turn the dimmer down until it is barely turning. I also use a mapp gas torch to get the neck hotter, faster. Then I dump the cases in very cold water.
I am still learning to get a "groove",that is the hard part. I am going to try the crayons so I can get an idea of the time it takes, then it should just be an assembly line kinda thing.0 -
I place the bucket between my knees, the torch in my left hand and spin the case between my right fingers. Use the Temp-sticks until your familier with the color change (a darkened room helps). Drop the case when the color is correct, You won't burn your fingers, and they serve as a safety to make sure the case is quenched before any annealing of the head area takes place. I wouldn't worry about replenishing the water, all it has to do is get the neck temp below 300f, and I can't imagine doing enough annealing to bring the water to a boil (212f). 0
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