primers
I am a newbie to reloading so please do not laugh. I am going to reload for a 45 auto and a 380 auto. I plan on using Winchester primers. Large pistol for the 45 Auto? Small pistol for the 380 Auto? mttrapper[:)]
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i'm on the hunt for hulls that take a #57 and/or #157 primer. i can use 12/20/28/410 ga hulls 0 -
rifle primers have a thicker metal cup, and may not detonate with a pistol firing pin hit. 0 -
Look at the height of the cup. Large rifle primers are (slightly) taller than large pistol primers.
Another thing is to look at the seal color (anvil side), they use a different colors.0 -
Tailgunner is right. Better use care in handling a lot of loose primers. 0 -
If you can not notice a difference in the color around the anvil---toss em before they are more bother than they are worth. 0 -
at a little less than .02 each, chunk them in the trash and start over. 0 -
Dump them.
Look at the exercise as a lesson....NEVER leave live primers laying around. The most dangerous component in reloading is the high explosive primer.0 -
i'd have to agree with these guys chuck them 0 -
two kinds of primers? open? on the bench at the same time? and you spilled them? was alcohol involved? you made the Darwin short list. 0 -
For the price of a couple hundred primers trash all of them. Its not worth taking a chance (or worrying about). 0 -
I have a somewhat related question, I already know about keeping primers/powder seperate from the bench and only using 1 primer/1 powder at a time.
Well my question is concerning primers, I am going to start reloading this weekend and bought the last few items im going to need this week. Well I don't really do anything small when it comes to guns so I should be setup for .380 .45acp and .45 colt.
Now my question is I read some of my reloading manual but havent gotten into it all yet havent had time going to take the time this weekend before I start, however I was looking up what powder and what primers to get and I ended up with 1 reddot 1 unique and 1 accurate #2 as well as winchestor large pistol primers and cci small pistol primers #500 I chose those because it looked like the correlated to the most available loadings of the calibers I wanted to load in the loadbooks I have.
My question is in the manual it says to use the exact primers for the load specified what happens if you substitute? Say instead of using winchestor large pistol primers I used another brand of large pistol primers? The reason I ask is it seems to me it would be a lot easier looking for components if I could not have to worry about getting the exact primers listed for x load since it seems every loadbook lists a different primer.
I mean if the powder is just not going to explode correctly and I get poop velocity I dont really care I have a chronograph and plan to check every load I do, and I would just not use that combination of powder/primer again but If I could get it down to 3 or 4 kinds of primers for all my loads it would just be a lot easier and a lot cheeper in the long run and give me less headach's :P I just dont want my gun to explode from using the wrong primers or anything like that
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Redice
At the lower end (of most) recogmended data the difference in primer brand (not type IE regular vs magnum) there is no problem with swapping. However you if your load is at the top of the chart you DON'T want to "just substute", without working the load back up again.
The workup phase is when your watching for signs of pressure, pistol cycling issues, and group size improvments. When you find a load that gives you no pressure signs, reliable cycling and good groups, stop there even if it's not a "top end" load.
That said, the two 45's you doing are fairly low pressure cartriges, and you *probably* won't have a issue with a primer swap (as I have no experance with the 380, I won't comment on that).
When your new to reloading, try to stay as close to "the book" as possable, leave the "nucular" loads to those with a few years, and thousands of rounds, under their belt (hopefully after that time you/they have enough experance to spot potential issues before they become expensive/painful).0 -
Your book will show "Starting Loads" and "Maximum Loads".
NEVER START WITH MAXIMUM LOADS....
With starting loads, using different primers is GENERALLY no big deal.
NEVER alter a Maximum Load...FOR ANY REASON...without dropping back 10% and retesting.
Get several loading manuals..refer to all of them. What you are doing is cross-referencing the manuals...which ensures YOUR hide in the real world.0 -
quote:Originally posted by Highball
Your book will show "Starting Loads" and "Maximum Loads".
NEVER START WITH MAXIMUM LOADS....
With starting loads, using different primers is GENERALLY no big deal.
NEVER alter a Maximum Load...FOR ANY REASON...without dropping back 10% and retesting.
Get several loading manuals..refer to all of them. What you are doing is cross-referencing the manuals...which ensures YOUR hide in the real world.
Ya I planned to start at min and work up, the loading manuals part was my problem I have like 8-12 already and each has different primers listed for similar loads. Thanks for the info you really made my day.0 -
I have found the majority of my firearms are the most accurate at well below the maximum loads anyway. If you are loading for semi auto you will want to be careful at minimum to be sure the bullet leaves the barrel and the gun cycles right. 0
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