reloading
I came into possession of a Pacific DL 150 reloader, but it came with no manual, so I have no Idea what order the shot shell must go thru in order to be reloaded, can someone with the same model or the knowledge help me.
Thanks
Thanks
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loading data for .308 caliber ftx bullets 0 -
Go down to reloading forum, too.
There are LOTS of experts there with the right info![:D]
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Thats a good start-
quote:How much money can a person save by reloading?
Depends on the volume that you reload. The things to remember (in my own opinion) about reloading is building ammo that suits you and your gun and the fun of doing it.
quote:How many times can the brass cases be used?
at leaest 4-5 times, BUT it depends on the quality of the brass, how hot of a load you use etc.
Come over to the reload forum we will get ya set up[;)]0 -
Woah, slow down! $275 for that whole kit seems like a bit much.
You would save money buying the stuff seperately.
Look into the following:
A Lee Classic Cast press ($60) http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=317831
Lee pacesetter dies ($18 for a set) http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=520790
And an rcbs 505 scale ($68) http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=758842
Thats all you need for basic reloading. With time, you'll also need to aquire a set of calipers to measure case length, a case trimmer, and assorted other items. For right now, I would highly recommend the above items. I own the lee classic cast press; its awesome, better than anything else out there and for the least amount of money. All my dies are Lee, they are the best finished, include free shell holders and powder dippers, and most importantly, free load information!. The RCBS scale is great, easy to setup and use.0 -
Didn't know we hand a reloading forum. I will ask nunn to move it for me . Thanks. 0 -
Get a few more load books to they are not all the same- safe data but some load books run on the high side some on the low side for starting points. 0 -
As for your other questions; in regards to price, you about break even when compared with commercial ammunition. If you have a cheap/free supply of brass, say, from friends or from your local range, costs can be considerably less. Also, using cast instead of jacketed bullets will save you money.
What you get by reloading ammunition, is you can bump the accuracy of your ammunition far above commercial standards. Also, if you hunt, taking game with ammunition you reloaded is supremely satisfying.
And reloading is just plain fun. Its relaxing. Its another facet to the shooting sports that is enjoyable and can be accessed by members of the whole family.0 -
quote:Originally posted by MosinNagantDisciple
As for your other questions; in regards to price, you about break even when compared with commercial ammunition. If you have a cheap/free supply of brass, say, from friends or from your local range, costs can be considerably less. Also, using cast instead of jacketed bullets will save you money.
I will have to disagree with you a bit on the cost of reloads.
.44 Magnum's cost about .48 cents a bang from the factory ($24/box). I load mine with bullets I cast from (free) wheel weights. Primers & bullet lube cost about .02 cents per, 8 grains of Red Dot is about .06 cents. That's about .08 cents a pop. Granted, these are appoximately .44 Special loads. If I was making full house magnum loads the price of powder per shot would probably double or triple (depending on powder & charge) & the jacketed bullets would be .12-.16 cents bringing the price up to .30 maybe .40 cents. Still less than factory. Frankly I don't enjoy shooting full house magnums all the time & .44 Special ammo with lead bullets cost just about as much as .44 Magnums.
I loaded the .45 Colts tonight with factory made cast bullets that cost .14 cents each, plus primer & 7 grains of Red Dot. This load pretty much duplicates the cowboy action loads that cost $22-$24 a box, or about .45 cents each, give or take. The ones I loaded cost about half that.
.308 Norma Magnums are $2.50 EACH from the factory if you shop around. ($49.99 a box of 20 from MidwayUSA) I load 'em for four bits to a buck, depending on how much I want to spend for premium bullets.
I'm guessing you could load .06's for half to two thirds the price of factory, depending on bullets used.0 -
I can load better ammunition with all match worthy components for approx. 40% of the cost of factory premium ammo.
as far as parts goes, by RCBS kits (rockchucker press) and you will be pretty much set-up to go with tools that are backed by a no BS warranty.
one must also remember that the cost of each case, is divided by the number of times it can be used before being tossed. If you pay say $40 for a bag of ultramag brass then each case costs .40. now, I load hot and get maybe 6 firings from the cases, which gives you a figure of .07 for each case, each time fired. At a figure of 90gr's of powder per load, you get 78rnds from a pound of powder which costs lets say $24, gives a figure of .31 for powder. I'll give a match bullet a cost of .28 and a primer is about .02. So, for 300rum I have around .68 in a 300RUM round with match bullets and FGGM primers.
compare that to the $30/box of 20rnds giving a cost of $1.50 each on the shelf.[:0]0 -
Do you need a seperate loader for rifle and handgun? 0 -
no,..just appropriate dies for each caliber. 0
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