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ruger 10/22 questions

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8 comments

  • Orphanedcowboy
    Was the ammo new, if so what brand? I find it hard to believe right out of the box this thing would jam like that. Give the gun a good cleaning, it may be just the opposite of what you were told, it could have to much lubricant/grease causing the gun to misfire/jam. Can you explain what you mean by riding the bolt?
    Orphanedcowboy@msn.com
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  • competentone
    Hello supergirl,Last question first: "Riding the bolt" when chambering a round really won't hurt a gun, but it may make it jam--by not allowing the bolt to "snap" forward, the round might not strip and seat properly in the chamber.As for the jamming itself--always difficult to diagnose without actually seeing how it's jamming. Sometimes firearms need a "break-in" period; freshly machined parts can sometimes contains burrs of metal that restrict smooth operation. The heavy factory oil issue, as you've already been told, could be a problem too. Read the owner's manual and see if you feel comfortable taking the gun apart and cleaning it.Trying different ammo, again as suggested, is good to do too. I find CCI brand ammo is best for most of my 22's. Go to Walmart and buy a box of CCI Stinger 22 ammo and see how that works.Also, if it jams, try to look at it carefully (BE CAREFUL, SINCE A JAMMED GUN IS STILL A LOADED GUN!) to see exactly what is hanging up--if you can give a description of what happens using the part names (found in the exploded view in the manual) it may make long distance diagnosis possible.Ruger's 10/22 is normally a pretty trouble-free gun, so I'm sure this can be solved.Joe
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  • s.gun
    If you are using name brand ammo.,there is a problem that needs fixed.Call Ruger and they will fix it.The salesman must be afraid to tell you that you have to send your brand new gun in to have it repaired.But that's the way it is with 3 new guns I,and two of my friends have bought in the last 2 years.We were all well satisfied with the results (all makers of quality guns)except a problem with Browning which did me out of a clip;plus the shipping and insurance ;for a total of $43.00
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  • taxijohn
    From what I hear, using a heavy OIL is not good for a ruger 10/22. Clean it well and try wd40, That's what I've use with no problems.
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  • prebanfan
    I would say that there is a 95% chance that your problem is with the oil. Either too little or too much. You gotta really scrub down a gun good when you first buy it. Reach in the empty gun and see if the chamber feels sticky. If so clean it and then clean it again. If it feels like a big spray of wet WD-40 in there, swab it with some dry patches. It's a small area on a 22 so it's easy to over oil or under oil the chamber. I have seen this problem happen on 2 different occasions with the same gun you have. You don't want your oil runny and you don't want it sticky. Just a light film. Just make sure you have cleaned off all the old gummy oil and that it is completely gone or you will just put fresh oil over the gummy oil. Give it a really scrubing and I think your problem will be solved and it will shoot 1 right after the other, smooth as silk.
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  • REBJr
    Maybe I too can learn something here, I was taught that semi-autos had to be kept dry, I mean to say oil the bolt+ carrier, then wipe dry and re-assemble to prevent fouling and subsquent jamming. Everytime I leave my SA'a wet I foul and jam. Anyone else heard of this? Am I wrong?-Ralph
    Nothing very, very good or very, very bad lasts for very, very long.
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  • supergirl
    Ok, I used American Eagle High velocity 22LR when it was jamming. The guy gave me Winchester super x to use(haven't had chance to yet). From what you've told me, it probably needs cleaning first of all. Ok, problem number 2: How much should I dissassemble it to clean it and what should I clean? Meaning, to what extent should I clean it? I read the manual and got as far as taking off the stock. (don't laugh!) I tried to push out the receiver pins, but they didn't come out. I figured you have to push really hard with something to get them out(duh), but don't want to break something or take them out if it's not necessary. Once I figure all this out I'll be able to do it in my sleep, but for now I'm still figuring it out. Hey I can't thank everyone enough!
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  • HAEDPULLER
    Try using something plastic like the back of an ink pen to push on the pins so you won't scratch your gun- they will go either way so don't be concerned about that. When a gun is new they are a little tight at first but if you just tap them with some object -it should not take much. Remove trigger unit and pin at back of reciever so bolt can be removed. Pull back bolt and lift front of bolt away from reciever to remove. It takes a little force. Clean everything with good solvent (Hoppes-etc) and stay away form WD-40- after sitting inside any machine or gun for a while it turns to goo and attracts dirt and dust. Get a synthetic lube made for guns like Hoppe's "dry lube" that comes in a spray can and you can get at Walmart- or something that will not gum up- Tetra Gun products are good. Don't overdo it- put some on any shiny area where the bolt and slide rub together. Putting the bolt back in is the hardest part becasue you have to get the cacking handle and bolt lined up just right- but you can do it. If gun still jams write the details of it.
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