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stock refinishing

rlfcjf
Any ideas on getting oil out of an older gun stock. I was refinishing a Rem. 1100 and when I stripped the stock,oil keeps bleeding out near the receiver end. I guess the guy that owned it before soaked it in oil!!!!! What about denatured alcohol??? HELP!!!!!
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10 comments

Date Votes
  • rlfcjf
    I have a savage 67F in 12 gauge and I want to refinish the stock but I don't know for sure how to take the stock off and I don't want to tear into it and have piece flying all over any help would be great thanks[:p]
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  • Herschel
    There are linseed oil based compounds that produce beautiful finishes. They require lots of time and labor but the result is worth it. These should be available in gun shops or stores with large sporting goods departments. There used to be one that I believe was called Linspeed but I don't know if it still available.
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  • mbrook
    I have had very good results with Tru-Oil. Easy to use and you can control the amount of shine by the way you handle the last few coats.
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  • ATF
    Brownells carried Linspeed a couple of years ago.I bought some.
    ATF
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  • Dancing Bear
    Give your oil finish time to dry and harden completely, I usually wait a week, wet sand it with 1500 grit wet/dry paper, then rub it out with a white polishing compound approved for clear coat finishes. Wax with a quality paste wax and put your sunglasses on.DB
    The more people I meet, the more I like my dogs.
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  • jonk
    I hate to put too much polyeurethane (I doubt I spelled it right either) on a gun as it makes it look slicker than a pair of cheap 1950's western cowboy spurs, but a little may be a good thing. Do your Linseed oil finish, then apply a very thinned out coat of poly as a last step, buff and wax.On the other hand, furniture wax- the oil based kind, especially jellied- can, with several treatments, yield very bright finishes.
    "...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conference in 1899.
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  • robsguns
    I use tung oil, Mini-Wax brand, its the most durable finsh I've used and I use it on everything wood that I refinish, furniture too. Its completely water proof, wont come off when it comes in contact with bug repellent like some finishes will, goes on easy and dries well, is easy to buff out to your desired taste, and is easy to touch up down the road when your stock gets 'hurt'. When applied correctly, you dont even need to buff it, it shines beautifully.
    SSgt Ryan E. Roberts, USMC
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  • 22WRF
    I have stocks that have been refinished or just maintained with Casey's Tru-Oil.If you rub it in long enough and let it build up it will look like it is a varnish finish but much tougher and easier to rub a scratch out of. The secret is rub it in until your can feel the heat on your hand, no cloth just rub it with your bare hand. Over and over and over.
    Home of the Blue Angels, P'colaSemper Adveho AbsconditusFree Advice: "Never hold a dustbuster and a cat at the same time."Never miss a good chance to shut up (Will Rogers)
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  • lock stock and barrel
    go to riflestocks.tripod.comfor a good lesson in stock refinishing.
    "Unless the LORD guards the city, the watchman keeps awake in vain" Psalms 127:1
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  • roundball
    Birchwood Casey's Tru-Oil...refinished several Marlins and T/C Arms Hawken muzzleloaders...far more beautiful then factory finishes;1) Strip with "Stripeeze"...a furniture finishing stripping chemical...don't let it spatter on the skin, and certainly not the eyes...wear long sleeves and safety glasses;2) Wash off (and stop) the "Stripeeze" action with mineral spirits;3) Let wood bone dry in a warm house for at least a week;4) Don't apply any stains, just start the applications of Tru-Oil...it will bring out the beauty of the wood which sometimes gets covered up with stain;5) You'll need 2 or 3 or more coats depending on the look you ultimately want to acheive;6) Let each new coat bone dry in a warm place for at least a few days;7) Go over each coat very lightly with '0000' steelwool, wipe or blow off steelwool dust;8) Repeat above few steps till you have what you want...it's not really labor intensive, but you can't be in a hurry...thorough drying must be allowed for each step...enjoy
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