Cold blueing??!???
I know there is blueing which can be sprayed on, and it is Cheap. What are the downsides to cold -vs- the heated (I presume) method, who can do the heated treatment, and the relative costs? I have an older gun, which can use some touching up, and wonder if I should do either.Thanks.
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DEPENDS ON THE GUN. MOST REBLUE JOBS ARE NOT WORTH WHAT THEY COST. REAL DOLLARS AND LESS VALUE FOR THE REBLUED GUN. 0 -
So for a non exotic type old 30/30 or .22, just buy the can and break it down and spray away? I guess that is what I wanted to hear, from a cost standpoint.Regards,Dave 0 -
My experience, the cold blueing doesn't seem to penetrate into the grains of the metal very well and wears off or fades very, very rapidly. Heated blueing is the best process, because the heat causes the metal to expand, which exposes the grain better and allows for deeper penetration.But you might consider another type of coating. Blueing offers absolutly no protection against rusting, actually in a way blueing is like a controlled rusting of the metal. If you try to blue a gun yourself, you'll find that as soon as you take the gun out of the blueing solution it starts to rust.From my experience, home bluing is a pain in the rear, its less hastle just to have it done professionally.Personally, when my guns get to the point to wear they are just old and worn, I'm just going to have them hard chromed, and then have a baked on poly finish on top of that. The hard chrome replaced the worn surfaces, but I don't like the look. And the baked on poly coating you can have done in any shade or color you want. And when it wears off the hard chrome will still be there, you just have another poly coat done. You gun will practically last forever that way, it wont wear (just the finish will), and it will never rust. 0 -
Weather your just looking for touch-up, or a complete home re-blue, Brownells makes a paste called "OXPHO-BLUE" its the absolute best cold blue I've ever used ... wipe it on, wipe it off. Want it darker? re-apply. With it being a paste its neat & easy to work with, doesn't dry out like sprays and liquids. The main thing to remember is the surface preperation is the key. If your surface looks like crap, your blue will too. Thats the main reason most home bluing doesn't turn out better.
GUN CONTROL: If you're not outraged, you're not paying attention!kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com0 -
Hope this isn't too off the subject. What about refinishing steel mags? I have a few hi-cap. mags that have a small amount of rust on the shell. Any kind of plating job would require disassembly. I probably would end up ruining the mag trying that. Would cold bluing be a reasonable approach?Thanks,Jeff 0 -
cbxjeffThats one reason I lIke OXPHO-BLUE Paste, its easy to use. You can remove the rust with a little steel wool or fine sand paper, dab a swab in the OXPHO-BLUE, and apply it to the area you want blued, give it a minute or two and wipe it off ... the longer you leave it on, the darker it gets.
GUN CONTROL: If you're not outraged, you're not paying attention!kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com0 -
Kimberkid,Thanks for the info. I'll give it a try.Jeff 0 -
Kimber, where can we find the oxpho blue. I would like to try it too. thanks, tom
Those who beat their swords into plowshares will plow for those who dont.0 -
Brownells carries it under their brand name. Try www.brownells.com
GUN CONTROL: If you're not outraged, you're not paying attention!kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com0 -
AFTER YOU HAVE PREPPED YOUR METAL AND RIGHT BEFORE YOU APPLY THE BLUE TAKE A BLOW DRYER AND HEAT YOUR METAL IT MAKES THE BLUE JUMP INTO THE METAL AND GOES DEEPER.TRAMO 0
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