Gunsmiths Help please-Barrel freebore problem
I was reloading for a new rifle (338-06 mauser) and found the rifling came so close to the chamber that even the lighter 225 gr. bullets had to be seated very deep in the case. How expensive is this to fix? Does a gunsmith have to do it? Does the barrel have to be removed? Thanks for any help.
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I would suggest returning the rifle to the gunsmith who chambered it in 338/06. If you bought it recently, contact the seller. The 338/06 is saami standardized now and any "new" rifle should be so chambered.
Mobuck0 -
Steve--Did you buy the rifle from a gunsmith, or a shop with a gunsmith, or from a shop that warranties what they sell? If so, the best solution would be to return the rifle to them to fix. If not, such as purchased from a private party with no recourse, then perhaps the best thing to do would be to take it to a good gunsmith for repair. You can, however, "do-it-yourself"; but there will probably be a little expense involved. No, the barrel does not have to be removed, but the throat will have to be reamed out a little more (obviously!). You will have to obtain a chambering reamer with an integral throater, or just a throating reamer. Remove the rifle's bolt, and place the rifle in a bench vise. Swab the chamber and throat with a good grade of high sulpher cutting oil or Brownell's Do-Drill. Dip the reamer in the oil, and with it secured in an appropriate sized T-Handle (this is a special long T-Handle, not a tap handle, because it has to reach from the rear of the action to the chamber--Brownell's carries them) slowly turn the reamer in the chamber clockwise while pushing forward gently. Only turn 3 turns at a time, because you don't want to remove too much. When you pull the reamer out do so by continuing to turn clockwise--never counter-clockwise or just straight back. Just slowly turn clockwise while pulling rearward. When the reamer is out carefully inspect it to see where it is cutting at; there should be minute metal chips on the reamer where the throat is supposed to be, which would be near the front end of the reamer. Be careful not to whack the reamer on anything, because they are hard and brittle and chip easily. Wash the reamer off with kerosene and swab the chamber/throat out with kerosene. Dry with a patch or two. Try fitting the load you wish to use into the chamber. If it's still too short, repeat the process until you get what you want. A word of caution--the reamer should show no cutting on the shoulder. If it does you are cutting the chamber deeper and will ruin your headspace--so proceed with caution. If you use a throating reamer they usually just consist of a short reamer of the diameter you desire. These usually cut very fast and, again, caution is in order. With the throating reamer all you are cutting is the lands, and it's very easy to go too deep quickly. The instructions for oiling, cleaning, drying are the same. I'd take it to a gunsmith, but if there's no one around you know or trust you can do it by following the above instructions. Any questions--feel free to ask. 0 -
I bought this rifle from a private party so I have no warranty or return. However I am a mechanic and very patient. I think I could use a throating reamer. Thanks for the help everybody. 0 -
Get Clymers catalog or call their specialist. You need a .338 throating reamer plus the "T" handle. You can measure your bore across the lands to be sure you order the correct pilot diameter. It's an easy job if you're slow and careful.Use smooth and steady rotations of the handle and try not to put side pressure on the handle. Decide beforehand how close to the rifling you want to end up and make up a few dummy cartridges with different seating depths so you can see when you're getting close. Clean chamber and check throat depth often. Remember, you cant put metal back. 0 -
Yes yes what they said is true, but if your pilot is .001 undersize or more you will do more damage than good.In one case it will make one side of your free bore longer, another is the reamer is more likely chatter.For those reasons and more I always use interchangable pilots on all my reamers. 0 -
I might add one more thing that will make a better job of your reaming operation. Do you have a friend, that is a machinist? If you do, or have access to a lathe, turn a bushing that just slips into the reciever, on the O.D., and fits the T-handle tightly on the I.D. This will keep the reamer concertic with reciever.
Best of luck K.J.S.
LOOK TWICE,SHOOT ONCE.0 -
I'd have a smithy take care of that in all honesty. You could wind up getting jacket build up if you cut it too sharp or leave cut marks. Much the way a pitted barrel gets accumulations. You can try it if you want but be careful.[8D] 0
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