Questions on Stock Refinishing
I'm refinishing my Rem. ADL stock. First, I want to give it a very dull satin finish . I'm sanding it right now, not using zip strip. What are some Ideas on what Oil to put on. I've heard Lindseed oil. What else? Can I just use oil, or do I have to put a coat over the oil/statin of some type of sealer. I just want a dark/dullsatin finish. I hunt in MT/ND so wet/rainy weather in November almost never is a problem. Also, Whats the best way to get that Glossy gunk out of the checkering on my ADL.
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I've refinished several military stocks, so I was also looking for a satin finish. I was never happy with linseed oil (too tacky), so I switched to tung oil (used by the US military after WWII), and it works pretty well. I thin it a little with mineral spirits, and use 0000 steel wool between coats. I usually apply 3 coats with a lint-free rag, but for field use in wet weather I'd apply more coats.
The old timers will tell you to apply oil finishes with the palm of your bare hand. We now know that the solvents are toxic, mutagenic, and carcinogenic, so they should be applied with rubber/vinyl gloves outdoors.
I have no experience with modern synthetic finishes, but I'd try acetone and a bristle brush on the checkering.
Neal0 -
Most sporting goods stores have refinishing materials. Birchwood product called "True Oil" is lineseed oil with a dryer mixed in it. Just follow the directions [easy] and my stocks all come out perfect. The secreet is in the prep. sanding etc. 0 -
I've refinished several stocks on old military rifles, and after I get as much of the dirt/oil/stain out of the wood that I can, I sand it smooth, rub it down with acetone, let it dry, then treat it with lemon oil. After the lemon oil soaks in good, I finish with several coats of satin polyurethane. The results look great, and it's not a real slippery finish. 0 -
I use Tung oil on most refinishing jobs . You must sand real well-apply a coat let stand overnite give as many coats as you want to accieve the finish you desire-remember sand between coats
Good Luck!0 -
nmyers is correct about the tung oil, using the 0000 steel wool will dull the finish to a desired look. I've used a stripper on checkering with a tooth brush, make sure the stripper is neutralized before refinishing. After everything is stripped, then stain to the desired color....another possibility, spray it with a two part polyurethane, for a dull appearance add a flatting agent or dull it up with steel wool. The stock will be virtually sealed from moisture. 0 -
I have used a stripper with good results, especially in the checkering using a stiff brissel tooth brush. I sometimes have to use the stripper 2 or 3 times in these areas. It does not get into the wood as far as I can tell. I always dry overnight minimum.
I have scraped off the old finish with a knife by scraping it, not cutting. This will get most all of your finish off the stock except in checkered areas. BE CAREFUL not to CUT the wood. This must be a scraping motion and will leave the stock ready for light snding and then finish.
I use Tru-Oil either spray or rub on, and have very good results using Brownell's "Linspeed" oil. These work very well. I usually let it cure 2 or 3 days before sanding over, but the Linspeed cures in about half the time. I never use a filler as it has tendancy to turn a light ding, white underneath the finish. I sand until the 'shiny' spots in the grain are gone or very minimal. This is how to fill the grain. As I sand the finish off down to the lowest spots in the finish (lower grains not totally filled) I will then put on more finish to fill in again. I take down the finish repeatedly untill the stock sands out with no shiny spots left, this is when I use the #0000 steel wool. Once I get to this point I use the 'light reflection' to inspect the quality of the finish. After I get the thickness of finish I want, then I finish 1 or 2 more times with the checkering uncovered so not to fill in the checkering too much. (Did I forget to mention I cover any checkering before I start applying any finish?
I can then hand rub this steel wool finished stock with a dry terricloth towel or similar soft towel to polish out any scratches left from the fine steel wool. It usually has a semi gloss clear finish look that is beautiful! ( If I must say so myself :-)
I hope to have helped and not to have rambled :-)
Scott
M&S Gunstock Shop
www.mandsgunstockshop.com
sdv7771@cox-internet.com
Custom StockmakerSeveral Grades of Walnut Firearm TransfersNRA MemberNAHC Life MemberNRA Certified InstructorAr Concealed HG Instructor0 -
Hello Budreaux - Thanks for the tips. It sounds like boiled linseed oil or tung oil finish about the same way. Your process is similar to one I read not too long ago, but I seem to remember the writer finished up with a couple coats of Johnson Paste Floor Wax, applied with ultra-fine steel wool then buffed to a hard finish. I printed out your technique to use on a little Win Mod 60 .22 single-shot stock. Best, Jim
timbroman@aol.com0 -
Nobody mentioned sanding. Use great care to avoid taking off
too much wood where it joins the metal or butt cap. It is a sure mark of amateur refinish if the edge of the wood is rounded. Best way at the butt cap is to sand with butt cap ON. Next to the receiver and other metal parts only great care will do it without damage to the blue.0 -
Thanks everyone. I'm going with Budreaux's basic scheme. I just today found a website that uses the same method. This pro does the same thing. So far I've Sanded it and Sealed it. I think by tomorrow afternoon I will begin filling the grain and do it about 5 times....So next week I should be done witn it. Between coats I'll use 0000 st.wool and probably steel wool it lightly when I'm all done to get a dull finish.....Thanks again everyone![:D] 0
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