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accuracy

muzzy-chucker019
Years back, I had a .270 Winchester Model 70 that was fabulously accurate with certain hand loads, nicely scoped and a pleasure to shoot. I sold it, too cheaply, and have regretted that ever since.

I still have a small collection of nice guns, but nothing to compare with that .270.

I'd like to find another rifle suited to long-range shooting and high accuracy, but frankly I know too little about the choices.

Perhaps this is one of those topics on which there are as many opinions as people. But I'd like to know more about what rifles would be excellent choices for very long range, very precise shooting (500 yards and beyond).

I want something that is inherently accurate. I don't expect to hunt with it. My intention is for sport shooting at a range, and to see how far I can push my own skills.

I understand very well that rifles can vary widely in accuracy, even among copies of the same make/model. I know that a bit of attention from a gunsmith can sometimes make a moderately accurate rifle into a nail-driver. What I want is something that's a good bet: likely to be highly accurate out of the box, and proven to be responsive to custom improvements.

Although I'm pretty sure I can choose a great scope, I'd still be pleased to see your suggestions for optics.

I'm well versed in handloading and well equipped. I can sight-in a new scope nicely, and I can do a good logical job of testing loads and projectiles. That's the fun part that I look forward to, once I have in hand a suitable catapult. [;)]

Fire away.
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Comments

13 comments

Date Votes
  • muzzy-chucker019
    Again without beating a dead horse, I own a win 43 in mashburn bee. Alot of shooters talk about "glass bedding" the barrel and I was just wondering what the heck is that and also why would that improve the accuracy of a rifle. I understand the principle of "free floating" but the glass bedding thing is over me. I'm always looking for that extra 1/4". If there are any suggestions, I'm all ears. Oh and by the way, my son got his first buck this year. I was very proud if not more than he was(6point!). He just turned 13. This is his 2nd deer!
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  • Nighthawk
    The .257 Roberts is normally an accurate caliber.I would try changeing ammo first and see if it prefers one load over another.HTH



    Best!!

    Rugster


    Toujours Pret

    Edited by - Rugster on 12/13/2002 15:31:29
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  • muzzy-chucker019
    I have tried different loads without much results.
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  • GPWEAPON
    If the barrel is not free floated that would be the first step
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  • cowdoc
    i have yet to see a rifle that didnt respond to floating the barrel.
    all of mine are floated and all shoot better. last one i done was for my brother...ruger mod 77 in 270win it could'nt shoot better than 2" group. after i floated the bbl now it will shoot under .5" group.
    doc



    Edited by - cowdoc on 12/13/2002 22:15:49
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  • groundhog devastation
    Float the barrel as cowdoc suggested and also seat the bullets just touching the rifling. It will be a rare beast of a rifle that doesn't respond favorably to seating long!! GHD
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  • rameleni1
    What exactly is "float the barrel"

    Rameleni1
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  • BoltactionMan
    Rameleni,

    Most rifles have a pressure point in the barrel groove of the stock, this makes a lot of rifles shoot OK. The barrel may touch the channel in other places too, especially when the barrel starts heating up from repeated firings.

    This unwanted pressure can change the harmonics (think karma or magic) of your rifle and cause poor grouping.

    Free floating involves removing the wood from the barrel channel so that there is no contact. This allows the barrel to vibrate freely and usually you can get better groups. Remember to reseal the groove to try to keep moisture out of the wood.

    Sometimes on thin barrels, you may need to put a pressure point out at the forend again. It is all trial and error, and can involve lots of fun trips to the range to shoot.

    KC
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  • v35
    Using a barrel rasp, file a clearance at least the thickness of a postcard between the barrel and stock for its entire length to the front of the receiver.
    If the trigger pull is greater than three pounds do something about it.
    If you use a shooting rest, rest the stock on it not the barrel.
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  • Huntor
    Free floating the bbl is fine unless you take it out int the woods. If foreign material gets in the opening it can cause the rifle to shoot in a different place. Glass bedding is also an option to accurize, and stops all possabilities of changing pressure points on the bbl. If it is a scoped rifle, make sure that all mount screws are tight. I always put clear finger nail pollish on the threads of the scope mount screws. On heavier recoil rifles, I even put it under the scope ring.
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  • Guns & Glass
    Before you jump into working the stock, there are a few tests that should be tried first.
    You can have not just one problem, but a combination of little things all stacking the deck with negative results.

    Alot of older guns had built in pressure(vibrating) points because it actually made them shoot better. Have gone through the work of reworking a barrel channel to find that groups have shrunk just a little, but not really worth the effort. Also learned to check other things.

    So, try these:
    Barrel-> Slip a dollar bill under the barrel. Fold it up in the shape of a 'U', but not pulling up on the barrel. Wiggle/slide it backwards towards the receiver. It could stick about 1" from the front. That would be a barrel rest-pressure point, etc. Just lift up on the barrel, sliding the bill passed it. It should slip free till you get about 1- 1 1/2" from the receiver.
    If it 'sticks' past the front spot, the channel does need work.

    >Setting the rifle straight & level, standing behind, and back two-three feet, look at the barrel-receiver & stock for straightness. If tweaked, see a good gunsmith.

    >Check action screws. This one thing has caused more problems & remedies. Can't tell you how many times I've been at a range, and tightened, or loosened them for a fustrated shooter, only to see a smiles of disbelief, and graditude. Including me.

    Using a PROPERLY shaped flat bit screwdriver that PROPERLY fills the slot, starting with the front screw, slowly try to tighten. Slowly increasing pressure, till.....it feels gently snug-tight. Don't over do it!!!
    Then, do the rear screw. Don't over do it! If you do, it sets up a 'bridge like' tension in the receiver. Shots will start to walk as the rig heats up.

    If, you got movement, recheck the barrel with the dollar bill. If no stick points other that the front, don't do anything else to the stock. Test fire. You will see a different group.

    >Check the muzzle, both at the edge, and just inside with a magnifying glass. looking for any damage, out of rond, dents, etc. If so, see a 'smith.

    >By the way, assuming the barrel, and chamber were cleaned,....?.

    There is more about stocks, etc. But for now, try the above.



    Happy Bullet Holes!
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  • chuck
    Gun's and glass is right, last summer I bought 2 Remington's one in 7mm08 and one in 300 win mag. Both shot about an inch and a half groupes at 100 yards, Glassed beded the actions and free floated the barrels, It did not help, Put about a half inch of glass beding in the bottom of the barrel chanel about 1 and a 1/2 back from the end of the fore arm, It was an instant one hollers on both guns.
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  • Xracer
    Maybe you've already done this, but:

    If I'm having trouble getting accuracy from a firearm, first, I make sure I have a good rest to shoot it from.

    Then I buy a bunch of different ammo (or bring a bunch of different handloads) and invite a couple of friends (who are known good shooters) and spend a bunch of time at the range.

    If it isn't the ammo, and it isn't me, then I look for other solutions.
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