Scoping the Yugo M48A Mauser (HELP!)
I'd like to put a scope on my Yugo M48A Mauser, and I'd appreciate any help you savvy savants could provide...
I've had the bolt (which was a "wide-arc" bent bolt) bent down to a near 90 degree angle. It's still easy to open and close the rifle by "palming" rather than grasping the bolt, so everything seems okay in that department. Now, the question is: What sort of scope mounts should I use? Drilling and tapping aren't an issue, because I have a friend who is a machinist. I'd prefer to go with a two-piece system, and I'd like to avoid obscuring the chamber if at all possible (I say this because I've seen scope mounts that look like they have a base that goes all the way from the front of the receiver to the back, right across the top of the chamber---but I could be wrong.)
Any advice?
Thanks in advance...
I've had the bolt (which was a "wide-arc" bent bolt) bent down to a near 90 degree angle. It's still easy to open and close the rifle by "palming" rather than grasping the bolt, so everything seems okay in that department. Now, the question is: What sort of scope mounts should I use? Drilling and tapping aren't an issue, because I have a friend who is a machinist. I'd prefer to go with a two-piece system, and I'd like to avoid obscuring the chamber if at all possible (I say this because I've seen scope mounts that look like they have a base that goes all the way from the front of the receiver to the back, right across the top of the chamber---but I could be wrong.)
Any advice?
Thanks in advance...
0
-
You should have no trouble scoping this rifle, as it's basically a '98 Mauser, and there are lots of mount and ring combinations readily available. Probably the most common 2 piece mount used is the Weaver-type. These are made, of course, by Weaver and several imitators. They are inexpensive, $5-$10 ea. The other mounts that you are referring to are called one-piece mounts. The problem that you may encounter is that your re-bent, bent bolt still may not clear a low mounted scope. The best way to determine this is to put your rifle on a flat surface or in a bench vise and look at it from the rear at sight level with the bolt handle up. If you observe the bolts on most sporters you will find that besides being bent they have a recurve to them which helps with clearance. Not to worry--these problems have all been worked out. There are 3 heights of rings to lift your scope above that bolt handle--oddly, designated low, medium, and high. If you still can't clear the handle you could try the Redfield type of mount, which is itself higher, in combination with a high size Redfield ring set. Millett brand rings are also very good for this, coming in the 3 sizes, and they are windage adjustable. They are a little pricey, but can get you out of some other problems as well like misaligned screw holes. If you still can't clear the handle there are the see-through types which are vaguely shaped like the numeral "8". These raise the scope up pretty high. The scope mounts in the top loop of the 8 and you can use iron sights by looking through the bottom loop. These are provided by several manufacturers, and there is at least one brand that screws right onto the receiver without mounts. I use the Weaver brand, because they mount onto the regular Weaver-type bases which give you just a little more height. The criticism of this high a mount/ring set-up is that, with the issue stock, your cheek will probably no longer be in contact with the comb of the stock. There are, of course, solutions to this problem also--add on cheek pieces, Monte Carlo stock, etc. Now if you were having a gunsmith do this job he would likely have a supply of all these mount and ring combinations available in his shop and quickly arrive at the right combination for the job. And....I am not saying that your machinist friend can't do a great job; but you don't want to buy several set-ups before finding the one that works, as each mistake will cost you money. So what you should do is study the problem carefully, perhaps with the help of your friend, and predetermine the height you are going to need for the bolt handle to clear both the bottom of the scope and perhaps also the scope's ocular bell (the wide part at the scope's rear), which may be a problem depending on the model/length of scope you're using. 0 -
One of the easiest ways is to mount your action in one of the preformed stocks with "built-in" scope mount brackets. I'm not sure of the brand, but they are advertised in Shotgun News and in Gun List. They cost about $60. Four great advantages: (1) no gunsmithing required. (2) you get a stock that is GREAT for scope shooting and keeps zero, (3) you only need Weaver rings and the scope,no bases,and(4) you do not destroy history. The rifle and the original stock are not altered!
Have fun, be careful
Morty0 -
Thanks for the info, Herr Gebirgsjager ("Jager"---that's "hunter", as I recall, but what's the "gebirgs" mean?) Perhaps some measurements on my particular situation would clear things up...
With my bent-again bolt sticking straight up, the highest point on the bolt (the top of the round bolt-knob) is 1.255" above the back part of the action (that's the part that has the funny jaggedy slot cut out of it for the bolt-handle.) This same highest point is 1.455" above the body of the bolt itself (NOT one of the ribs of the bolt, or the extractor. I measured from the cylindrical body of the bolt itself.) Using a 1" diameter screwdriver-handle held at varying distances above the upright bolt (to simulate a 1" diameter scope body, not including ocular bell) it looks to me like I get plenty 'o clearance if I use mounts and rings that suspend the center of the scope body 1.80" above the back part of the action.
Whaddya think? Still feasible?0 -
Sounds like a piece of cake with standard high rings. The part of first concern is where the bend occurs from the root (square part) of the bolt handle. Once that clears the bottom of the scope the bolt knob usually will slither on by. Gebirgs=Mountains. Best Wishes. 0 -
With those dimensions being accurate, you will be able to use most any medium height ring/base combination. Actually even a few low 's will work.
The main clearance problem will be the power ring if using a variable power scope, and or the occular(eyepiece) body as they are different sizes.
To start I initally measure or position the scopes power ring just behind the receiver bolt slot, or when the bolt handle is up, just behind that area.
As per the 'Hunter in Mountains' suggestion try some combos. especially to clear the rear.
Happy Bullet Holes!0 -
There are 1 or 2 companies that make a "Scout" type mount that just replaces the rear sight leaf and uses a long eye releif scope ... this is another nice alternative if you don't want to buy another stock or make any permenate changes to the weapon ... so it depends on what you want!
===========================
Chance favors the prepared mind
kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com0 -
My thanks and deep appreciation to Der Gebirgsjager, Guns & Class, and kimberkid for generously sharing their insight on this matter. Methinks I'll stick with the Weaver-type two-piece plan though, kimberkid---I like the looks of a tradidional-mounted scope better than those scout-types that sit 'way out front over the old leaf-sight.
Muchas appreciado to you all!0 -
trstone -
I'm with you on scope mounting, I don't care for the scout style either ... some do like it and it is a viable option for those that do and it doesn't ruin a "collectable".
My feeling about "collectiable" Mausers is, there are hundred's of thousands out there, very few are truly collectable IMO ... and if someone hasn't caught it by the time it filters its way down to me, it's not all that collectable or rare ... If I want a scope on it ... I have it mounted properly; drilled and tapped!
===========================
Chance favors the prepared mind
kimberkid@gunbroker.zzn.com0 -
I have mounted all kind of scopes on hundreds of M48's.
Regardless of a bolt bending (you still have a safety to clear the scope!), the best mount is a wide see-thru Weaver, Holden and alike, for FN MAUSER, although you can use those for M98, but there is a difference in the height of bases.
Hulvin0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
9 comments