need help with reloading dies
i just started reloading and have only reloaded 9mm so far. i got lee carbide dies in the red plastic can. i like the carbide as it requires no case lube,as you know. question is this: does anybody make a CARBIDE die in .308 winchester?
SGT RRG
The greatest happiness is to see your enemy scattered before you, to see his village in ashes, and to gather to your bed his wives and daughters.-Genghis Khan 1226
SGT RRG
The greatest happiness is to see your enemy scattered before you, to see his village in ashes, and to gather to your bed his wives and daughters.-Genghis Khan 1226
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I think dillon does.... I priced a set in 223 and about died. Buy yourself another gun instead. As I recall they were about $140. I have been reloading for several years and have yet to use $15.00 worth of case lube. I think it has to do with multiple carbide inserts because of the 2 diameters. I have a set of carbide dies for 30 carbine, supposed to be able to size dry, takes a great deal of force to size without lube, with lube it takes none. The amount of force required to size .308's dry may be prohibitive.
A man with a gun is a CITIZEN, a man without a gun is a subject.0 -
The few carbide dies made in rifle calibdrs still need lube.The carbide might make it a smidge easier,but the lube is still required.That being the case I've seen no reason to buy the carbide dies.Lubeing is time consuming,but not as bad as trying to remove stuck cases from a die! 0 -
I have never heard of a 'lubeless' die for bottleneck cartridges. Even the carbide ones still need lube (as mike pointed out). You might want to look into some of the spray-on lubes as a way of reducing the mess. Both Dillon and Midway have good spray-ons, I have used both with good results.
Quod principi placuit legis habet vigorem.Semper Fidelis0 -
maggie, Dillon makes a .308 carbide, but don't even think about re-sizing bottleneck rifle cartridges without lube. Just too much friction. The case will stick in the die. If you have sufficient leverage (say a Rockchucker or the old A2), you may be able to extract it, or - as I can prove - you will pull the rim off the case. Then you can play with a stuck case remover, dismantle the die and play with various jury-rigs, or take the remaining mess to a machine shop to have it cut out. I've tried all three solutions - I'm stubborn and I hate lubing cases. The best way to do it is not to go down the road initially! Loading bottle necked cases, lubing is unavoidable at this point. All carbide dies do in this case design is prolong the life of the tool - in respect to wear and greater resistance to damage from foreign material. I do these calibers on the single stage . . . if I were to load massive amounts of 7.62x51 or 5.56x45, I'd size them on the single stage before completing the job on the Dillon.
Another option would be to pick up reprocessed brass from this source:
http://www.scharch.com/catalog.htm
They are very reasonable and the brass is US GI 1xF.
Edited by - Iconoclast on 12/09/2002 12:26:470 -
Are you loading the .308 in a bolt gun or Single? If so you can get a set of the LEE collet dies.... They neck size only, and require no lube. They will not work for an auto or pump though- these rifles lack the camming power to close the bolt. The collet dies will give you better accuracy than full size dies because the case is a perfect fit to your chamber, not the machinists reamer who made you die.
A man with a gun is a CITIZEN, a man without a gun is a subject.0
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