Uzi A or B??
Which is the bettetr of the 2 model A or model B? thanks to all who answer
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It depends on what "BETTER" means! Better for what? Because I cannot answer this question as it is asked, I will give you a complete description and comparison between these two models and then you can decide.
According to the Blue Book of Gun Values, a 100% Model A would be worth $1,350, and the Model B in 100% condition would be worth $1,275, assuming both were 9mm. What is the difference in value according to them? Impossible to tell or to understand except that the Model A was made from 1980 until 1983 and the Model B from 1983 until banned in 1989. There was an almost equal number of each Model imported.
The outward appearance of these two guns is identical except for one small item. The Sights are different and adjust differently, but at first glance appear to be the same.
The Model A has a fixed rear sight that doesn't allow for any type of adjustment other than there are two peeps which may be rotated into use. One is for 0 to 100 meter use and the other is for 100 to 200 meter sighting. The Model B also has these two peeps for use at the same distances.
The Model B, however, allows for the rear sight to be adjusted either left or right for windage while the Model A does not and is fixed.
The Model B also has a single "Post" type front sight which may be screwed in or out to provide for Up and Down adjustment. The combination of the Model B sights makes it quite easy to adjust sights as required and actually work better than the Model A's, in my opinion.
Back to the Model A's front sight. It has a single Post also, but the post itself is manufactured "off center" so that it will actually orbit its own threaded center. This allows for perceived "right and left" movement of the front sight post when it is screwed in or out. This is the method used to adjust the gun for windage left or right. However, this same post is also screwed in or out to raise or lower it to adjust for Up and Down adjustments. As you might guess, this makes this a little more difficult to use and adjust because all four directions of movement occur anytime the front sight is adjusted in any direction. Mostly there is no need to re-adjust the sights once the gun is sighted in so this really isn't a big problem....mostly.
In 1981, there was a published Safety Warning by Action Arms LTD, the importer and seller of the UZI's, (Model A's only as the Model B's had not been made yet and wouldn't be until two years later in 1983), regarding the possibility of the Model A being fired WITHOUT the Bolt being closed completely if a cartridge was in the chamber. This was not a good thing and could be prevented very easily by simply following all Safety Precautions, but it was a definite POSSIBILITY should you somehow pull the trigger without the bolt being fully closed when a cartridge was in the chamber.
In 1983, IMI manufactured the Model B with the new style sights and an added feature to prevent a discharge if the trigger was pulled when the bolt was not closed completely with a cartridge in the chamber. This added feature was the addition of a "trip lever" on the bottom rear of the bolt which would extend back towards the striker/firing pin assembly preventing the firing pin from contacting the primer of a chambered round. When the bolt was all the way closed, this trip lever would contact the ejector in the bottom of the receiver and would be rotated out of the way of the firing pin when the bolt was closed completely. This added feature did nothing to change the performance, feel, action of the Model B and most folks are unaware of it or what it really means and why its there. Just made the gun safer for those that don't completely adhere to the normal Safety Rules.
This is the difference between the Model A and the Model B UZI Carbines. All Dimensions are exactly the same! They appear identical except for the items described above and these differences can easily be overlooked unless you have one each of the different models side by side for comparison.
To be completely honest and fair about these two guns, I must make a note here. This will not affect anything to do with serviceability, accuracy, durability, feel, etc., and etc., of either gun and you would not even be able to tell this if I didn't mention it. But, as all Manufacturers do, they try to find ways to manufacture faster, cheaper, better, etc. IMI changed the method used during welding/assembly of the receivers of these two different Models about the same time as the Model change. I have heard several time lines, just before change, during change, and right after the Model change. I cannot verify any time line as I don't know. Originally, the model a parts were stamped out of a piece of metal and the stamped part had a "tab" on it which was inserted into another part with a "slot" and then surface welded and ground off smooth and polished out for finish. This method of "tab and slot" was discontinued, I'm told, and the parts were stamped without the tab or slot and instead, the parts were edge welded and then ground off as necessary to finish the part, thus eliminating a step or two in production supposedly to speed up assembly. Cost savings? Who knows, but it was changed. This change neither made a stronger or weaker item and it is impossible to tell this change even was done......but it was although it means nothing to the owner/user of the gun.
Both of these Models are supposed to, (and do, from my personal experience), provide excellent accuracy. At 50 meters, one should expect 1 inch or less groups, with 2 inch or less groups at 100 meters, and 5 inch or less groups at 200 meters, (660 feet)! This is amazing accuracy considering these are 9 mm parabellum rounds, in my opinion?
Now, having written a Book here about these two Models of UZI, I ask you, "Which is Better?"
Fish Shudder at the sound of my Name!0 -
could not ask for a better answer thank you 0 -
I vaguely recall one other small difference. With the model A, a "slotted" machinegun bolt, spring, bumper and sear could be dropped in. Then, if the selector switch was removed, the gun was full auto.
On the model B, there was a tab of metal factory welded in the bottom of the receiver which prevented the machinegun sear from working properly. But a moto-tool would easily grind out the tab.
Back in those years, machinegun parts were legally and readily available--could be bought at gun shows. But around 1990, ATF regulations were changed to make parts sales/possession illegal.
My humble two-cents worth,
Rafter-S
"What is truth? No wonder jesting Pilate turned away. The truth, it has a thousand faces -- show only one of them, and the whole truth flies away! But how to show the whole? That is the question."
--Thomas Wolfe, "You Can't Go Home Again" (1934)0
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