BBL timing Enfield No4 Mk1
I bought a very nice WW2 No4 only to discover that the chamber had been BUGGERED . I ordered a new[USED] barrel from Springfield Sporters and now for the rub. The new barrel is a degree or two "long" when screwed and tightened to the receiver. What is the correct procedure to time the assembly? Mill the face of the receiver,or turn the shoulder of the barrel down? Then what? Check the headspace?? What else? I realize this is not to be taken lightly,as maladjustment is dangerous.I want to learn.
steve
steve
0
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I bought a very nice WW2 No4 only to discover that the chamber had been BUGGERED . I ordered a new[USED] barrel from Springfield Sporters and now for the rub. The new barrel is a degree or two "long" when screwed and tightened to the receiver. What is the correct procedure to time the assembly? Mill the face of the receiver,or turn the shoulder of the barrel down? Then what? Check the headspace?? What else? I realize this is not to be taken lightly,as maladjustment is dangerous.I want to learn.
steve0 -
Well you'll probably have to take it to a good gunsmith. I don't know offhand if the gun has timing marks or not but if it does, that simplifies things. In any event first the gun must be timed properly, then check headspace. If it will not time properly as you suggest, I believe cutting the barrel itself is in order. Once done, check headspace; you may need to chamber ream or cut a bit off the barrel face. A gunsmith could charge anywhere from $50 on up to do this depending on work needed. As I say I don't really know what I am talking about but do have an idea of what is involved enough to say leave it to the pros unless you've seen it done and then want to invest in all the tools.
"...hit your enemy in the belly, and kick him when he is down, and boil his prisoners in oil- if you take any- and torture his women and children. Then people will keep clear of you..." -Admiral of the Fleet Lord Fisher, speaking at the Hague Peace Conf0 -
Either way will work. You cant time it. When the sights are vertical
it's timed. If you're lucky the headspace will be acceptable. If it's too tight you'll need a chambering reamer and if it's too loose then you have to face off the barrel shoulder, spin the barrel in one turn and sink the chamber a little deeper with a chambering reamer.0 -
On the NO4 enfield you can adjust heas space by changing the head of the bolt, I think that there are 7 different ones. Dont quote me on that though. But thay are numbered. I have one numbered 2 and another one numbered 5. Hope this helps.
TOOLS
When I was a child, I thought as a child. But now that I am grown, I just wish I could act like a child and get away with it.0 -
The proper way to go about this job would be to face off the barrel shoulder until top dead center is achieved. Tools is almost right; the common bolt head sizes are numbered 0,1,2,3 with 0 being the smallest. Ideally, you would have a 0 bolt head, and after achieving T.D.C. with the barrel you would insert a "go" headspace gauge into the chamber and close the bolt. The bolt would have been stripped of all parts except the bolt body and size 0 head (firing pin, cocking piece, firing pin spring, extractor removed). The bolt should close easily. If it does not close completely you would have to use a chambering reamer to slightly deepen the chamber until it would close. The technique for the reaming is another matter--so if it comes to that I'll explain it in detail when you actually take on the job. If the bolt did close easily on the "go" gauge you should then try a "no go" gauge. The bolt should slide all the way forward, but the handle should not turn all the way down; remaining perhaps 1/4 inch short of rotating completely closed. If the bolt closes completely on the "no go" gauge, you should substitute a 1 size bolt head and start over, followed by a 2 or 3 if necessary, until the bolt does not quite close as described above. If it still closes on a number 3 bolt head, then the chamber is too deep and you will have to remove the barrel and face off the barrel face at the mouth of the chamber. This is unlikely--your barrel will probably have a chamber that is too shallow after you initially face off the shoulder and you will have to ream the chamber slightly deeper. 0 -
Thanks to all,especially Der Gebirgsjager....Sir, you gave me the information I was looking for,and I really appreciate it! steve
steve0
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