Sabots vs. Rifled Slugs
I own a Mossberg 500 with a 22" rifled barrel. I've been sighting it in the past couple of weeks, and I've been using the recommended sabot slugs.
However, today I shot a box of 3" Slugger rifled slugs I had left over from my Remington 870 smoothbore.
The results were shocking to me. At 50 yards, which is no farther than I expect to be able to shoot this deer season, there was no noticable difference between 3" Slugger rifled slugs and 3" Copper Solid saboted slugs.
If this is normal, and the slugs pattern well, I may seriously consider using the Sluggers. They make a larger hole (by virtue of the fact that they are not saboted), and are cheaper as well.
Can anyone give me information on: 1)Whether this is normal, and 2)Which do more damage, the 3" Sluggers or the 3" sabots?
However, today I shot a box of 3" Slugger rifled slugs I had left over from my Remington 870 smoothbore.
The results were shocking to me. At 50 yards, which is no farther than I expect to be able to shoot this deer season, there was no noticable difference between 3" Slugger rifled slugs and 3" Copper Solid saboted slugs.
If this is normal, and the slugs pattern well, I may seriously consider using the Sluggers. They make a larger hole (by virtue of the fact that they are not saboted), and are cheaper as well.
Can anyone give me information on: 1)Whether this is normal, and 2)Which do more damage, the 3" Sluggers or the 3" sabots?
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Bullzeye, Just my opinion and you know what that's like, the sluggers will do a good job at what you're trying to do! Sometimes ammo makers (gun manufacturers, bullet makers, accessory manufacturers) come up with something to separate us from our money! Rifled slugss have been used for a long tie with satisfactory results! They're cheaper and just as accurate (in your gun) and the deer won't know the difference!! Good luck and good hunting!! GHD PS: Allen (Aglore) would probably second this as he likes to make as big a hole as possible!!! ha ha 0 -
It's the rifled barrel that equalizes the accuracy. How about doing a comparison at 100 yards and reporting back to us.
Your decision is an easy one. Go with the full sized heavier soft lead slug.0 -
Bullz - You will foul the barrel quickly using Sluggers. While they shoot fine, I believe the rifling is the opposite twist. I would (and do) stick with the sabotted slugs. I use 2 3/4" Lightfield and / or 3" Brenneke Gold. The Brenneke is not a sabot but is plated so as to prevent lead fouling.
"A Fear of Weapons is a sign of Retarded Sexual
and Emotional Maturity" Sigmund Freud
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At fifty yards, I notice very little difference between, sabots, slugs in rifled barrels, slugs in smoothbore barrels.
The only difference I notice, is less recoil with a sabot in a rifled barrel-which to me is a big difference. I do not shoot game beyonsd fifty yards with my shotgun, but use the sabots cause it is easier on my shoulder. If the recoil does not bother you, and you are shooting at fifty yards, stick with the slugs.
And I find those 3 inch slugs unbearable. 2 3/4 is more than enough. imho.
"Sometimes the people have to give up some individual rights for the safety of society."
-Bill Clinton(MTV interview)0 -
Bullz, the rifled slugs were originally designed to be fired in a smoothbore. Obviously you can fire them in a rifled barrel, but the soft lead of the projectile will crud up the rifling in short order. You will need to make a lot of extra effort to clean the barrel. If that is not an issue with you, and your shots are at short distances, then that big ol' slug will work just fine. Properly placed, either projectile will make short work of the average whitetail. Good luck! 0 -
The Foster style (rifled) slugs were not mainly designed to create a twisting/rotating motion, but rather that of a compressible slug because manufacturers didn't know what kind of choked barrel the slugs were going to be shot out of.
The ribs allow the slugs to be safely shot out of all from 'open to full'.
Later, with the growing number of replaceable choke tubes, the rifled barrels, slugs got evenmore refined. Ala the 'new' Remington slugster.
I have shot plain ole rifled slugs, and Brenneke's that have grouped better that many expensive styled slugs (saboted,Lightfield BRI,etc).
Each gun will shoot differently due to action type, barrel tang (long vs short), barrel fit up in action, AND barrel nut tension, etc.
Not to mention most slug guns have horrible triggers, and can used some tune up work. That alone will help
Best to try different types. Found that the 3" mags in general gave the worse groups (too much vibration).
Sometimes after a few shots, groups actually improved as I settled in, and the barrel bore got "smoothed out-in" by a couple rounds.
Besides, I hated cleaning the plastic out of my barrels.
Hot hair drier speeds things up.
Happy Bullet Holes!0 -
I bought the Mossberg Trophy Slug gun when they first came out.
I have always used Winchester Foster type 2 3/4 1oz.
It shoots consistantly to 4" at 100yds.
Over the years I have taken several deer with it.
All my hits have been between 40 and 90 measured yards.
I use it on the Oregon coast in a shotgun only area where it is fairly brushy. I have come to rely on it quite a bit.
A good scope on it is a big help.
You can't miss fast enough.0
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