"Aging" Wood and Leather??
What I have is an original Win. Model 97 that I found a new "replica" stock and forearm for.
Also I have a new leather scabbard for the 97.
They need some "character"!!
How can I gently "age" both the leather and the wood to make them look more correct for the era effect.
I don't want to go "overboard", but do it right.
**Seems strange how I am always looking for ideas to make guns look "NICE" and here I'm doing a 180**
Also I have a new leather scabbard for the 97.
They need some "character"!!
How can I gently "age" both the leather and the wood to make them look more correct for the era effect.
I don't want to go "overboard", but do it right.
**Seems strange how I am always looking for ideas to make guns look "NICE" and here I'm doing a 180**
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If you put a new stock on an old rifle, it will never look correct. The wood to metal fit just won't be right.
Mind you, I've seen some wood workers(cabinet makers)use some stains that could age a piece of wood. Well it didn't age it, it just looked older. You know that greyish colour pine gets when left outside. It'd be crappy on a rifle but so would pine. See if you can find a hunk of walnut you can play with. Experiments with the stain. Look into a furniture refinishing book for a recipe.
Leather doesn't age well. You could come up with a dye mix that might make it look a bit older but new leather will always look like new leather and more importantly smell like new leather.
Edited by - Sunray on 10/22/2002 14:16:020 -
In Army Basic training (not like the History Channel version) we found out that it was easier to get our combat boots to shine up if you 1st took the waterproofing off of them by running hot water over them. Most would say why would you want to take the water proofing off of your combat boots? Well let me tell ya those things were so covered in kiwii (shoe shine) when we got done with them that they were waterproof no matter what. The water basically softened the leather so it would take a shine better. As boots got nicked and dinged, I knew guys that would strip the shine off there boots -- basically soap, water, & a little rubbing alcohol. Then use a fine grade of sand paper to sand out the dents or nicks & then re-shine.
This may be one way to help with your sling but be sure use some sort of shoe polish or neutral afterwards.
This is just an idea, might want to try it with a belt 1st before ruining a perfectly good sling.
Opinions are like Ah@les, everyone has one.
Edited by - drobs on 10/22/2002 16:38:390 -
I do alot of woodwork and must say, it is hard to turn wood into a natural worn look. I first use chains and odd metal things to beat the wood and put dents in it- some deep some shallow. Not too much- just a little. don't forget cuts- with a knife. Then sand all of this down to smooth out he dents and remove the original coating. Old dents are smooth and not sharp- so sandpaper it a lot afterwords. First use a dark stain to darken the dents- use a rag. Sand again and then use a lighter stain and sand again. It's trial and error. Use used motor oil to get a dark effect- then coat with linseed oil. more bumps afterwords and more lin. oil. 0 -
Drobs and Daddo,
I think you are both "right-on" on your recommendations and both will be used.
Sunray, regarding the "wood-to-metal" fit, the professional stock maker and "fitter" made the "fit" look like the two were one of the same.
Not anywhere close to the "fit" on the 95 year old gun, where the wood is naturally going to shrink away from the metal after close to a century of time.
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