What stain to use on my lever action 44
I've sanded both pieces with 320 Grit and the wood looks good now. Just need some advice on what stain to go with. Any suggestions would be helpful. I'm also thinking of putting a scope on it is that a good idea or bad?
Thanks for your help!!
Thanks for your help!!
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Hey ,welcome to this Forum .do not stain it!! I am glad you posted I have redone a few but those I just wet striped and did not sand.How soft is wood? I best easy finish is a oil finish. GOOD OLD LINDSEED OIL any hardware store go slow and work in with palm of your hand the oils in your hand are also good with bring out the grain it will be a little darker than it was This finish is easy to take care of 0 -
I think that whether or not to use stain depends upon the kind of wood, the color of the wood, and your personal preference. I don't usually put stain on walnut, but it depends on the color. I use an alcohol-based stain, such as Fiebings (available at leather craft & shoe repair shops).
I prefer using tung oil, rather than linseed oil. I thin it with a small amount of mineral spirits. Use 0000 steel wool between coats.
Rubbing oil on wood with the palm of your hand was traditional among "old timers". Now that we know that the aromatic hydrocarbons used as solvents cause cancer, today we apply oil with rubber/vinyl gloves, and in a well-ventilated area or outdoors.
Neal0 -
I wouldn't stain it, personally. If you use linseed oil, make sure that it's boiled linseed oil, as raw will remain sticky forever, you can buy it boiled, so you don't have to do it yourself, it's dangerous! The best oil finish, in my opinion, is Watco Danish Oil. It is a polymerizing oil, so it will actually form a chemical bond with the wood, but it will still avoid the "plastic look" of traditional varnishes, and let the wood be felt. You can touch up at anytime with a new application. Contrary to the directions, which say one coat, I use 3 or four on most furniture that I build. It can also be found in colors, but I have never tried them, as if I want a different color, I use a different wood.
Also, contrary to popular belief, "hand rubbing" does not refer to rubbing oil or anything into wood with the palm of the hand. It refers to the practice of rubbing out a varnish or shellac finish with a felt pad using first pumice mixed with mineral oil in a slurry, which will produce a satin-smooth low-sheen finish, and if more sheen is desired, rottenstone and oil used in the same way. Pumice and rottenstone can still be found at woodworking supply houses and many hardware stores. I would not use shellac, however, on a gunstock, as water will turn it white.
If using boiled liseed oil, rubbing enough to generate warmth after the oil has been applied will help it bond with the surface. The rule for linseed oil is once a day for a week, once a week for a month, once a month for a year, and once a year forever.
Most importantly, with either linseed oil or Watco, rags saturated with either oil should be immediately soaked in water after use and left in water until disposal, or else burned. The friction of the oil drying on cloth, combined with the evaporating chemicals can, and does, spontaneously combust, I have had it happen, luckily, it was outdoors. Make it pretty!!!!!0 -
Advice from timberbeast for using linseed oil is all GOOD ! I would recommend using True oil by Birchwood Casey. It is a linseed oil with dryers and hardners. The easiest way to a beautiful stock. It dries quickly, and builds up quickly...use a few coats for a satin finish, more for high gloss...just follow the directions and have fun! -Mark 0 -
Before using any kind of dye take a rag with alcohol on it and wet your stock. While wet it will give a close approx of how it will look if you just put on finish without dye. nmeyers is right about Fiebings leather dye. I have used it for years on many jobs. Get Medium Brown and Black. Before you put it on your stock try it on a piece of scrap. The brown alone will likely be too light. Pour out a little of the brown in a small bottle and add a very small, repeat very small, amount of the black. Try again, maybe add a little more black if darker is wanted. Once you get the mixture you want, swab it on. It will dry quickly, probably not looking good at all. Then take a rag with alcohol on it and rub it till it is even and like you want. Put on whatever finish suits you. Lately I have been using water base poly something varnish. Goes on smooth, dries in couple hours. Try your whole procedure on scrap before you put it on your stock. Let us know how you make out. Hope this helps. Robert 0 -
customstock does it the same way I have done in the past. I usually use 3-4 coats of oil and polish with OOOO steel wool in between coats. Make sure to wipe clean after using the steel wool and before applying the next coat. I have even finished the stalk of a century plant for a nice walking stick using this method.
If you don't care where you are going, you can't get lost.0
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