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Recoil Resistant scopes?

SilverBox
I have a Mini-14 and I'm pretty sure the $80 dollar bushnell 3-9x40 I have on top is moving internally after each shot. It used to be accurate (Like 1" groups or less at 50 yards) Now I'm lucky to get 4-5" groups of 5 at 50. I've shot maybe 600-700 rounds thru it with the scope on top.

Any recommendations for relatively affordable scopes that will stand up to semi-auto .223 fire for 2000+ rounds?

Thanks.
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Comments

11 comments

Date Votes
  • Duck
    Depends on your definition of relatively affordable. Never could afford a Ziess or a Swarovski but, am very happy with Burris and Leupolds and how long they last. An $80 dollar scope is no bargin if it can't stand up your using it. If your not going long range some of my friends are going to the halo and red dot sights and are very happy with them.
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  • SilverBox
    I guess by relatively affordable I mean only a bit more then the 20% rule of thumb.. I have a 500 dollar rifle and the 20% rule would mean I should get a scope thats around $100. I was reading some other posts here and people had good things to say about the simmons aetec and the BSA platinum targets, those are in the $150 range.

    I like the red dots, shot a ar-15 at the range with one of those on it, but out past 200 yards its pretty hard to keep it in a tight group. I'd prefer a scope.

    Leupold or Burris for a Mini-14 seems a bit overkillish.
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  • hotrodusa
    Try putting the scope on a different rilfe that shoots tight groups, Then you will know if its the scope or the gun. Befor removing scope from rifle you now have it on, Check and make sure the scope mounts are good and tight (screws that is). I would also clean the gun very well and look over the stock for cracks, Ect., And retest before trying scope on a different rifle.

    I hate to say this but when it comes to scopes you get what you pay for, 80.00 is not very much. As you pay more you get a better quality and more durable scope. The scope manufacturers used to tell you this, Now the say any scope will hold up to what ever recoil you can dish out, They are after your sale, Not what's gonna work best for your rifle, I have talked to some scope companies over the phone, And I still cant believe that they could not answer simple questions, And direct me in the correct scope for my application.
    If trying the scope on another rifle proves the scope is at fault, Send it back to get fixed or replaced, Give the a sad story along with the problem you are having. Prehaps when you get the scope back put that scope on a rim-fire 22lr, And buy a more expencive scope, Leupold, Ect.

    My 2 cents

    Robert
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  • SilverBox
    The mounts are tight the rifle is in fine working order. I had some problems with the scope mounts coming loose, but I tightened them up tight and put dots of white paint at the edges of each of the screwslots it hasn't moved since then. (next step was to use locktight)

    I really truely think it just wouldn't hold up to the recoil. The picture is still superclear the damn thing just won't hold a group anymore.
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  • allen griggs
    The recoil on a .223 semi-auto is the least of any rifle that would be considered "high powered". A bolt action .223 would kick more. A .30-06 would kick lots more, like twice as much. A .300 Win Mag, well.... What I'm saying is that any decent scope for a high powered rifle would withstand the kick of that gun. Maybe you dropped it once and dinged the scope. Maybe you just got a defective scope. I have an $80 Tasco on a bolt .30-06 and it has been working fine for 20 years.
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  • bmxrc
    Check into Millett BUCK gold scope I go a 4-16x44 on my ar-15 NO problem Check midway and cheaper than dirt carry them silver are cheaper, No hassle warranty break it get a new one just like (leupold)
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  • spclark
    Are the elevation & windage screws close to their center positions or way off one way or another? If the 'scope's not "centered" when you mount it in the rings, then you screw one or both adjusters well off-center to get a point-of-aim = point-of-impact, the scope just won't be reliable. Find a small cardboard box whose sides are about as far apart as the rings you have mounted; cut a V-notch in opposite sides of the box walls so you can rest your scope in them. Place the box & scope on a table, near the edge & then, while looking thru the scope, rotate it thru a complete turn. Watch what happens to the crosshairs. If the cross goes round & round, you need to readjust to get the cross centered before you put it back in the rings. Once that's done, adjust the rings to bring the crosshair back on aimpoint. It's a common misconception that the adjustments can be screwed down to their limits to bring aimpoint to POI but scopes - particularly less expensive ones - perform much better when the crosshairs are near the center of the scope body, otherwise whatever shock-absorbing that the scope may have is pretty much useless.

    Edited by - spclark on 09/12/2002 19:48:26

    Edited by - spclark on 09/12/2002 19:49:11
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  • SilverBox
    spclark,

    thats a good idea I'll try that when I get home.

    thx
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  • fergusonmorse392
    i bought one of those many years ago 32.00 at a gun show, used as a sighting tool for load devlopment on several rifles, then the rear eye piece became loose,shots went like yours, sent it back to the factory, it came back with two long pages(60+ items) of checks, & they repaired as necessary, free (except 10.00 s&h fee)came back, the best scope i've ever owned..check with the company about repiar.
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  • 101AIRBORNE
    I am not fond of Bushnell scopes but I understand that
    Bushnell will repair them for $10.00. I would also suggest
    using a bore sight prior and after firing a few rounds.
    I also mark the screws on my sights which is a good idea.
    Good luck. 101
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  • JustC
    This is how I center my adjustments. Dial your knobs all the way to their max setting (until they stop). i.e. dial the windage all the way right and the elevation all the down. Then dial them all the way the other way until they stop, but count the clicks. This total number of clicks will be the same for both knobs. Once you have that total number, divide it by 2 and dial that many back on each knob. That centers your scope adjustments, or very close. It is not as reliable with cheaper scopes, but it works. Like SPCLARK said, try to keep it centered.


    Also, mini-14's have a habit of loosening up the screws on the sides of the action that go through the stock. Put a BIG screwdriver in the screws and make sure they are tight. I have seen them sling bullets everywhere when those screws loosen up.

    A great rifle with a junk scope,....is junk.

    Edited by - JustC on 09/13/2002 10:04:04
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