reloading the 308 Winchester
I am reloading 308 Winchester for my Savage 16 Bolt action rifle. I started with a batch of brass, resized all the cases, then trimmed them all to proper length. I am very pleased with the accuracy of the rounds, but I have noticed that on some of the loaded cartridges it is a little harder to close the bolt. What causes that?
Next question. Can someone explain maximum point blank range to me. I have my rifle zeroed for 100 yards. It has a 22" barrel. It shoots almost to the same point (withing an inch) when I moved the target into 50 yards. If I want to zero the rifle for 200 yards, should I be a few inches high at 100?
Thanks
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!
Next question. Can someone explain maximum point blank range to me. I have my rifle zeroed for 100 yards. It has a 22" barrel. It shoots almost to the same point (withing an inch) when I moved the target into 50 yards. If I want to zero the rifle for 200 yards, should I be a few inches high at 100?
Thanks
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!
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I am reloading 308 Winchester for my Savage 16 Bolt action rifle. I started with a batch of brass, resized all the cases, then trimmed them all to proper length. I am very pleased with the accuracy of the rounds, but I have noticed that on some of the loaded cartridges it is a little harder to close the bolt. What causes that?
Next question. Can someone explain maximum point blank range to me. I have my rifle zeroed for 100 yards. It has a 22" barrel. It shoots almost to the same point (withing an inch) when I moved the target into 50 yards. If I want to zero the rifle for 200 yards, should I be a few inches high at 100?
Thanks
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!0 -
Hi, Chris--I'm surprised the reloaders in this crowd let you slip off of page 1 without being padlocked! Here's my best attempt to answer your two questions:
(1) There are several possibilities that might cause your bolt to close hard on your reloads, the least likely of which is that your sizing die's tolerences are a little too loose and isn't squeezing the brass down enough. Like I said--that's the least likely, as the die makers for the most part are making really precision products nowadays. Next, could be that you need to ream the necks of your cases out a little bit, especially true if you are reloading military brass as it tends to be a little thicker. Are you crimping your bullets? Perhaps you are crimping them a little too hard and raising up a slight ring in the arear of the case mouth or just a little way back on the neck. When you chamber a round you are, in effect, having to resize the neck again in the chamber. The last thing that comes to my mind is that your die is adjusted improperly and the die isn't setting the case shoulder back far enough. This shouldn't be a problem if the brass was originally fired in this same rifle, but could be a problem if originally fired in a different rifle. Since you stated that you trimmed the brass to the correct length we'll rule out that as being a problem.
(2)Point blank zero refers to the area in which you can expect to hit a target with a killing shot by aiming directly at the center of mass without making sight or scope adjustments. In other words, your rifle is zeroed at a distance at which the bullet will neither pass over or drop below the kill zone. In the case of a deer, a shot in the spine (top of back) or lower chest cavity (lungs-bottom of chest)will incapacitate the animal. An inch too high or too low will be a complete miss, and something in the middle is desirable. So, with your particular caliber (example) you might find that at 250 yards your bullet's trajectory would pass below the kill zone of the deer, but hit in the lower portion of the target at 225 yards. Anywhere from that distance in to zero distance from the muzzle you will hit the target, higher or lower depending on the exact range, but within that zone you will be in the kill zone a little higher or lower; but 225 yds. can be refered to as your point blank zero. In the case of a military rifle, and for military applications, this is referred to as a battle sight setting. The slight difference would be that in military usage against enemy personnel any hit is acceptable (whereas wounding game is not acceptable) so the target zone includes head to foot. Hope this helps a little.0 -
Thanks for the infor Der Gebirgsjager. I am using only commercial brass, no military. I am using a brand new RCBS sizing die and a Dillon crimp die separate from the seating die. I am going to try reducing the crimp and rechecking my sizing die to see that it is properly set. Do you think its worth investing in a case gauge to check my loaded rounds after production? If I am going to reuse this same lot of brass over and over again in this one particular bolt rifle, then is it true that I can simply neck size instead of full lenght resizing each time?
Chris8161
Admit nothing, deny everything, demand proof!0 -
Try double checking the overall cartridge length Chris. Your bullets may be touching the rifle lands when you try to close the bolt if your particular rifle has a short throat. You may need to seat your bullets a little deeper. Sounds like your doing everything else right.-- Yes, you can neck size only if they are to be shot in the same chamber but still need to check the case length.You can also just partially full length resize ( just enough so the case will chamber in the same gun )and get very good accuracy, especially if your not shooting in a precision competition like benchrest.If you haven't bought a neck sizing die yet I'd try that if it will suit your purpose.More than likely you just need to bump the case shoulder back a little.--- P.S.= I shoot a 308 win. alot and have found that with a typical load with a 150 grain bullet the point blank range that doesn't allow you out of a 10" target zone (above or below)will be approx. 285 - 290 yds sighted in a little high at 100 yds.-- Good luck -- Temblor. 0 -
TRY ADJUSTING YOUR DIE DOWN JUST A LITTLE, YOU SHOULD SEE JUST THE SLIGHTEST KISS MARK ON THE SHOULER AREA (SHINE) IF YOUR SIZING DIE IS SET RIGHT.... AFTER TRIMMING DO YOU CHAMPHER THE INSIDE & OUTSIDE OF THE NECK.....YOU WOULD NOT HAVE TO CRIMP THIS LOAD, IN THIS RIFLE... AT THE RANGE MARK THE OFFENDING CASES AFTER SHOOTING WITH A FELT MARKER, AFTER THE NEXT SIZING TRY THE EMPTY CASE IN THE RIFLE BEFORE LOADING,(BEFORE LOADING)!!! KEEP THESE SEPERATE ONCE LOADED, & AT THE NEXT RANGE SESSION, CHECK AGAIN... YES THE CASES THAT DO NOT GIVE YOU A PROBLEM, TRY NECK SIZING, IF YOU USE A HOT LOAD, NECK SIZING MAY NOT WORK. 0
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