Luger
Have a German Luger with the DWM on the toggel. The S/N is 77xx and the only stamps on are "Made in Germany" and the proof mark. I need more information on the gun please. Blue book lists it as being made in 1900. The cal. is .30. On the front of sight is a "D". There is a loop mark below the S/N on the front of the fram. The number 14 is on the rear of the gun just below the rear sight. This is all that I can find on the gun. Should I be looking for more marks and is there a sight some place for just Lugers?
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whats the going rate for a 1916 luger 0 -
It's a 3 5/8 Luger. The photo shows wear on the sideplate finish and possible heat bluing of the frame. The stock lug is intact. Quality photos of L&R and top would be helpful. Important in the evaluation are markings,matching s/n's of all parts and magazine, condition of bore,finish & grips. 0 -
A little somthing to watch for on Lugers is on top of the breech block, next to the pop-up extractor, is one or 2 thin (looks like a pencil mark or a thin soot line) lines running back from the breech face and into the extractor cut. These are cracks caused by using over-powered ammo (assuming that a chunk has not already fallen out) and the only cure is a new breech block.
Just some friendly advise from someone that learned the hard way.0 -
This weapon is not in my possession. I have "limited" resources to add concerning the initial post.
The breech block has the following:
S/42
The s/no.s of the piece differ, which leads me to believe that Mauser Works reconditioned this piece in 1938. Also not in my initial post was the fact that my father-in-law returned from Europe in 1946 with this piece, along with a 1937 R&K Voegel military issue holster:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve5x5/voegel.JPG
Also not in my initial post is a bore conversion to 5.29 MM, which I think might be pristine in condition, but not sure if pre-war, or post war:
http://mywebpages.comcast.net/steve5x5/5.29Luger.JPG
Also not in my initial post are (5) 9 MM rounds found in the the extra clip in the holster that I beleive may be original German WWII Military Issue, along with a full box of 9 MM Remington rounds that I am guessing date back to the late 40.s., perhaps purchased here in the States, by my FIL.
I'm guessing this as I (have),in my possession, a Winchester Model 1873 rifle that my Dad gave me that also came with (same Remington box description), (Green & Red), (same in general colors and design of the box) which contains (41) 32-20 rounds for the Winchester.
As a new member, I'd like to thank "the regulars" that help ignorant persons, such as myself, "get by" in this forum.
The second amendment to the Constitution of the United States:
guarantees that no "one" can fool around with the other twenty-six.
I've taken some liberties here with the quote of one other member in particular.
steve5x5,
Thanking all those that kindly reply in advance.0 -
The 22LR conversion unit is probably worth more than the pistol.
It looks like an Erma unit.Is it complete and do you have a .22LR magazine for it?
I would estimate total worth of everything at $700-9000 -
steve5x5--go to www.p38forum.com hope this is the right website.There some very knowledgeable people that helped me with my p-38 on there,they might can help you.
Welcome to the forum!!!!!!
"It was like that when I got here".
Edited by - 4wheeler on 09/02/2002 21:57:270 -
SP: I learned it can happen by using some mil-surp SMG ammo in mine (french crupo-nickel semi-AP as I remember). The pistol handled it, but when I showed it to Mr Shaddock (I toured his collection when he still lived here in MI) he pointed out the problem, and it's cause to me.
That same kind of ammo was known for removing the rear sights from P-38's (and in one case I know of the entire slide) so it was some hot stuff. As far as the strength of the Luger, ammo that hot only left minor cracks as far as safety goes (and some additional wear on the toggle hinge pins), but major dammage as far as collectability (and value) goes.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
The extractor cut on the Luger is forward of the case web so a real overpressure load will burst a case there and blow out the extractor.
On the way out(up)the extractor strikes a keeper ledge on each side and may crack or break them off.
Another weak spot of the Luger in handling hot loads is that the striker is light weight, making blown primers easy. When primers are blown,the firing pin is driven back by gas acting against the large diameter striker body which, acting as a piston strikes the firing pin retainer that is keyed into the breechblock rear with a 1/4 turn arrangement. Either or both the tiny key on the retainer or keyway on the bolt can broken off. Spring retainer guides on postwar Lugers, being investment castings, also break up when struck by the rebounding striker. The later investment cast firing pin tips also break off. Inspection of Lugers should include these areas.
Lugermakers addressed the problem by cutting several gas bypass grooves in the firing pins. This helps some but didn't cure the problem.
Because of these weaknesses in the basic pistol, I would be reluctant
to experiment with barrels longer than standard issue and certainly not the Luger carbine.
John Browning designed the 1911 and the P35 with small diameter firing pin bodies which are also light but cannot do damage to the pistol as happens in the Luger.
Early in the century when the US Army did acceptance testing on the Luger, they purposely thinned out primers. Surprisingly, the problem didn't come out. The pistol was rejected on other grounds.
It's my unconfirmed belief that Berdan primers better resist
blowout than Boxer primers of the same thickness.0
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