another question for gunsmiths
Will the side plate on S&W revolvers come off without the trigger/hammer mechanisms coming apart? Also I noticed it's wedged in pretty tightly -can you recommend a way to gently pry it off without risking harm?
Thanks again, friends.
Thanks again, friends.
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yes the side plate will come off without anything fling apart, gently pry the plate up from the back of the revolver. 0 -
Nothing should fly out, make sure the side plate is facing up and gently tap it all around with a rabber mullet, um, I mean rubber mallet. 0 -
No need to pry on the sideplate. Take the sideplate screws out and tap the side of the gripframe with the screwdriver handle; the sideplate will come loose and can be lifted off.
We buy, sell and trade quality guns and scopes!Master Dealer for Kimber, Wilson Combat and Dan Wesson.Visit our website at www.ApaxEnterprises.com0 -
And, don't even attempt this unless you have a set of hollow ground screwdrivers, and blades that fit the screw slots precisely.
Neal0 -
It sure is good of you fellas to give me some of your valuable time here. I was thinking of putting in a lighter set of springs, but I see that I currently don't have the right size screwdriver to change the mainspring. It looks like that rebound spring might be pretty tricky to get in and out also. I may try to find some professional assistance with this job.
Thanks again for the advice.0 -
The rebound spring is the hardest part to assemble. It's a cut and try affair to lighten it and still get a positive return.It's doable once you've had it in and out a few times. You could also polish the sides of the spring carrier to help smooth up the trigger pull.
The Wolf gunspring website has single springs and spring kits to lighten or heavy up trigger pulls and hammer falls. Pick up a few precision screwdrivers at the Sears Hardware store. If you own guns you need a few good screwdrivers dedicated to gun work and their maintenance.0 -
v35: I've got a kit from Wilson Combat; they any good? It has three options for a rebound spring: 12#, 13#, & 14#. I thought I would use the lightest one -still seems like a bear to try to compress in that small space. What do you use to polish the carrier with, steel wool? -wet/dry sandpaper(1200grit, maybe?)? Can the cylinder locking lug(or whatever it's called) also be polished? It tends to snag the trigger slightly at the beginning of the DA pull. 0 -
Also any recommendations re: lubricants and lubrication points would be helpful. 0 -
Hello ,
Do Not "Pry" the Side Plate Off !!!!! , the indication that you had to ask tells us that you do not know what you are doing , leave it to a "gunsmith" Please !!!!!! Ive been a "gunsmith" and law enforcement
armorer as well as a LEO (firearms instructor) also , we see too many
good guns "boogered" and in a paper bag bedause of some-one being a
"home gunsmidt!" on the kitchen table ....if you need some "smith" work done , find a good real GunSmith (we do reasonable work) and I
have been to the S&W arormy school .......
Thanks & Good Luck !!!!!!!!!
azgunnut2@yahoo.com
d.a. stearns
gunsmith / leo
sweetwater , tn
Join / Support the NRA
Guns are my friends !!!0 -
Before I owned a Dremel with rubber bonded polishing wheels, I used a small Hard Arkansas hand stone to polish all rubbing surfaces of all parts that are not case hardened. The S&W cylinder locking bolt operates against a very light spring, so fooling with it isn't going to buy you much. Conversely, the surface on the carrier that cams the hammer back against the force of the hammer spring needs to be polished. Try to minimize removal of metal and changing of any angles.
Clean up well or fine grit will continue to work.0
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