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Revolver Cylinder Double Drag Line

rballi
I know that just about any used revolver will have or develop a cylinder drag line with use. I have a S&W Mod 60 that has two drag lines on it. I don't really see anything that would cause it. I know the usual drag lines come from the cylinder stop 'dragging' on the cylinder, but the other on on my gun is at the base of the cylinder. Is it possible that it was done on purpose for cosmetic purposes?

Don't give me too much of a Raz for it being a Ladysmith, my wife shoots it and she is a lady and the gun shoots the same 38 that non Ladysmith guns do.

Here is a link to some pics of the gun.

http://groups.msn.com/rballipics/shoebox.msnw?Page=12
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Comments

8 comments

Date Votes
  • rhmc24
    With the cylinder open for loading, take a good look at that portion of the cylinder where it turns next to the frame. Hope this helps.
    Robert
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  • v35
    The cylinder could have hopped over the cylinder stop when loading or when someone assembled the cylinder and yoke.
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  • Der Gebirgsjager
    Yet another possibility--take a close look at the cylinder stop with a magnifing glass and see if the top has two high spots making separate lines. It should be uniformly rounded on the top. Has the cylinder or the cylinder stop ever been replaced?
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  • Der Gebirgsjager
    After taking a look at your pictures--is your ejector rod screwed all the way into the ejector star? Excessive forward-backward play in the cylinder could have allowed the cylinder to travel too far to the rear and scar on the cylinder stop nub at the lower left rear of the cylinder recess. Did you acquire the revolver new or used, and was the line present when you acqired it? I'm pretty sure this has been the problem at one time or another. The only other possibility would be a burr at the top or bottom of the frame's cylinder recess that is rubbing on the cylinder when it turns.
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  • rballi
    Thanks for the replies. The 2nd drag line is well behind the cylinder stop. My guess is that at one time the fitted part on the frame may have been rubbing on the cylinder. I do notice that the base of the brass will rub on that fitted part when the cylinder is out and ready for ejection. The gun shoots fine, it's not loose, no seizing, binding or sparks other than at the end of the barrel.
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  • bama55
    rballi,

    I believe there is a high spot on the frame lug and the cylinder is rubbing against it when reloading, etc. With the cylinder out, check to see if there is contact. If there is, you can use a needle
    point file to cut the high point down until there is no contact with
    the side of the cylinder. The only contact should be the rear of the cylinder and the frame lug. Also, check to be sure the frame lug is
    not loose, or backed out of the frame. Take a brass punch, place it
    on the frame lug and tap with a hammer. Do this before filing on the
    lug, as the lug may go further into the frame, thus ending the problem.

    Don't send flowers when I die. Send money now, I can buy more ammo.
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  • Der Gebirgsjager
    You're leaving us in suspense with an unsolved mystery! Did you buy it new or used? Was the ejector rod ever loose since you've owned it?
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  • rballi
    I bought it used, the drag line was already there. I had three days to try it out. It looks like it was that fitted part at the bottom left of the frame opening that might have caused the drag line in the past. It functions fine, I was just wondering what else could have caused the line.

    Thanks for all the replies!
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