reloading question
I am having to use BR-2 large rifle primers on my 22-250 reloads.
I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.
The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.
My question is ,
Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?
I have been putting 39.2 grains of H380 under a 53GR Barnes TSX FB.
The Barnes book says you can go over this charge a little because of the ring lands groves in the bullet.
My question is ,
Do you think I should back off a few tenths of a grain to offset the large rifle primer?
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Yesterday I was playing with my 257 Roberts that I've had some accuracy problems with. I loaded up 3 rounds using 35 grains of Varget and a 115 gr Nosler B.T. The OAL was 2.920". This group of 3 averaged about 7/8" at 100 yards. I loaded up 3 more with the same powder and charge, except this time I made the OAL 2.900 and the grouping opened up to about 6". My question is, can .020" make that big of a difference in accuracy? Next question is, how good of a bullet is the Nosler B.T. on deer? I heard it said once that they have too thin a jacket to get adequate penetration, and my final question is, on bullets with a cannelure, such as the Speer Grand Slam, is it necessary to seat the bullet so the cannelure is at the rim of the case? 0 -
If you change bullet styles or make, you need to start back at the bottom and work the load up again.The reason is that different styles and different makes can cause the internal pressures to change, whats safe for one is a overload for another.This is part of the reason that different manuals show different charges with the same weight bullets.[This message has been edited by Tailgunner1954 (edited 03-30-2002).] 0 -
And on this same line of being cautious...if I could make a suggestion, a very good investment in time and money is to buy (or borrow) one of the top name reloading manuals like Hornady, Speer, Sierra, etc, and read it from cover to cover;They usually have an excellent, detailed explanatory chapter about the principles of cartidges and then reloading itself, covering issues just like the one you asked about, etc.Once you read it thoroughly, you'll then understand it and will have the knowledge and subsequently the forsight to stop yourself from doing something that might cause you a dangerous situation...GO slowly...this stuff really needs to be understood...it is simple but also can be very dangerous...it's not a very forgiving hobby when a mistake is made...enjoy! 0 -
I have the speer manual and have read most of it, still reading. I read the part on using different bullet types but was unclear if the same type of bullet (exp.fmj)made by a different company could be safely reloaded with information contained within the manual for the bullet weight. If not, where can you obtain the recomended safe loading data for the different bullet makers? I understand about the different reloading manuals but my question is for military surplus bullets and off brands.Thanks in advance 0 -
Someone may correct me if I'm wrong, but the weight isn't as much a factor in different brands of bullets but the type of bullet such as- soft point boat tail (spbt), flat nose, ect. The ogive is another consideratoin ( as the ogive 3, compared to ogive 9). This will make for seating changes. I have a Lyman 47th book which I like more than the others, but read them all to pick up as much info. as you can. 0 -
It sounds like your loading the 9mm Lugar, I think Midway has a "Loadbook" for that round.Loadbooks are made up with the data from the different manuals for one cartrige. www.Midwayusa.com 1-800-243-3220 0 -
Also, note that the loads for jacketed bullets vs. lead bullets are drastically different. The answer to your question is, no, it changes for each bullet type.
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