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crimping issue: somewhat confusing?

Comments

6 comments

  • oneshy
    I've been reloading for awhile and I taper crimp everything, revolver and semi-auto with the die supplied in the 3-die set. You can adjust the tightness of the crimp by screwing the die in and out. From a tight crimp to no crimp. You'll want to crimp each rd. in order to hold the loaded bullets in against the recoil of the fired rd. In semi-auto, the tighter the crimp, the better in order to insure feeding short of deforming the bullet. In revolver rd. the crimp insures smooth insertion into the cylinder. [This message has been edited by oneshy (edited 02-18-2002).]
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  • Der Gebirgsjager
    Good Advice.
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  • Xracer
    I really don't suppose it matters a heck of a lot, as long as you're consistant and you get good results.I taper crimp for both revolvers and autos.
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  • joeaf1911a1
    SaxonPig: Glad someone else agrees with me about the .45 auto headspacing on the extractor. Have purpossely trimmed .100"off cases and still chamber. Just to try.Not a norm. Good thinking.
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  • Rocklobster
    Yep,I've been trying to convince people of that for years-nobody (except you guys) believes it.Another thing to think about-a good,uniform,firm crimp also ensures that the powder's initial ignition is uniform,which makes for better,more consistent accuracy.
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  • v35
    Uniform bullet pull is essential for best accuracy. Heavy roll crimps are especially necessary on heavy bullets and heavy loads in light revolvers to prevent bullets from jumping forward out of the crimp during firing. 250 grain bullets in 44cal and 45 long colt are good examples of this.
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