Reloading
I just started reloading last night. I bought the lee anniversary kit and the problem i have is when i seat the round i seat it in too far. i dont know when to stop applying pressure to the lever. Can anyone help me out. BTW i'm reloading 45 acp
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I've been shooting for 20+ years but never have tried reloading. I am looking for advise about which type of equipment you recommend for a new reloader (I'll be starting off with 40 S&W). I would also appreciate a list of "need to have", and "nice to have" equipment. I've been doing a lot of reading and am leaning towards the Lee PRO 1000 progressive. Any thoughts? 0 -
Check your local gunstores and this auction site for a Dillon progressive press.
If you can't fix it with a hammer, take it to a mechanic. will270win@aol.com ~Secret Select Society Of Suave Stylish Smoking Jackets~0 -
A Lee Anniversary press and a set of Lee speed dies will get you going for less than $100. After you've mastered the basics and want to reload in quantity, then a Dillon is a good choice. Be sure to get a good reloading manual and, if possible, get one of your reloading friends to give you hands on experience.
PC=BS0 -
I have a lee Pro-1000 progressive press and love it. It's worth spending the extra fifty dollars to have the entire operation simplified and be able to produce a couple of hundred roudns per hour. As far as components go, if you're going to be loading .45acp, you might look into getting gov. surlpus projectiles, brass and, if you're comfortable with it, powder. There's a good site for all of this at www.gibrass.com/index.html good luck, it's a great hoby.
New Hampshire, USA - "Live Free or Die!!!"0 -
Unless you know for sure that you will be loading a lot of ammo, I would hesitate to invest in a progressive machine, particularly the Dillon. You can load an easy 100 rounds an hour w/ a single stage press in any straight wall handgun caliber and it is more versatile if you decide to branch into other calibers at a later date, especially rifle ammo. If you can, observe &/o try different machines used by others you know. And talk to them to see what they like / dislike. By all means, invest in a good loading manual & read it carefully before you start. Reloading is simple, fun and very productive, but you have to follow the instructions. I recommend Lyman's manual as they offer loads w/o limit to a particular brand of bullet / powder. I don't recommend their tools. 0 -
Would like to share my thoughts on this matter
when i stared out
bought a single stage press 1st and learned the basics
now that i have been reloading for awhile
i'm moving on to progressives
but will still keep and use my old single stages
I for one like to leave a setup intact when I reload lots of one calibur
and for that occasional box of rifle rounds will always use my old RCBS rock chucker
I would highly recommend that Lee Anniversary press to the new reloader
it a great bargain and it is also available with the Lee manual
please be sure to get a couple of data manuals and a good book on reloading.0 -
Hate to say it, but getting started is expensive no matter what you do.You need a press, single stage is about 100 to 130. or a progressive which costs several hundred. A powder scale around 25.00 to 50. Probably a hand primer 20.00 approx, Dies around 30 for a set of 4 lee carbide with "factory crimp die" "very good to have", a dial micrometer to get the ammo the right over all length 20.00 cheapest, bullets, 18 to 20 for 500 lead bullets, brass is cheapest at a range or on ebay, get used brass and just treat it yourself or you'll get shafted big time on price, figure 4 to 6 cents a round, primers 15.00 a thousand, powder around 14-20 a pound which will yeild around 1000 to 1500 rounds. a powder throw which is like 25 to 50 dollars, and maybe someone can tell if I left anything out. Anyway, cheapest route would cost around 275 to 300 just to load one caliber with a single stage. If you reload a lot its a good idea. But run the numbers. It costs about 3-4 dollars a box to make your own, assuming 45 is not too much more expensive then 40 cal. How many rounds would you have to make to break even. My suggestion is to look for a complete set up someone is auctioning off and get the whole deal at as good a price as possible. Patience is worth a great deal in getting a really good price. Progressives are worth the extra because they can save so darn much time, but get one that will load rifle, just in case, if you can find a deal on one. You will also need a couple of reloading manuals for several sets of numbers to compare, and """READ"""" them, they are very interesting and valuable in keeping you """HEALTHY"""". Reloading can be very dangerous if you aren't willing to learn just what to do and what mistakes to avoid. That adds about 20 to 30 a book new. Used manuals are fine. Die sets include good instructions as well. Some powder manufacturers give a small manual away, and the internet can supply figures.Hope that is not too dark a picture. I load a lot and shoot a lot and got my stuff very cheap over years of looking around. So for me it works out fine.Good luckEric 0 -
DITTO,START WITH A SINGLE STAGE.IF NOTHING ELSE IT LETS YOU LEARN THE BULLET SO TO SPEAK.I WOULD RECCOMEND LOADING SMALL BATCHES AND SHOOTING THEM TO CHECK YYOUR POWDER LEVEL,BULLET DEPTH,OVERALL BULLET LENGTH,CRIMP SETTINGS,FEEDABILITY(NEW WORD.IMHO A SINGLE STAGE MAKES IT EASIER TO LEARN THIS,WALT
Submarine Sailor,Truck Driver,and very bad typist.GO RUSTY #20 -
I was just asking this question not too long ago... It seems that the RCBS Master reloading kit is the most complete kit i have seen on the market so far. Is the lyman that much cheaper? I need to get one in a few weeks or so.-Smooth
Life is the leading cause of death.Everything else is just a contributing factor.0
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