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What should I pay for this S&W

Colt Super
A friend has a J frame, S&W Model 36-1 .38 Special, square butt, nickel, 3" barrel, with box and paperwork, S/N J 839375 that he would like to sell me. He has no idea what it's worth. There is some external scuffing on 2 of the cylinder bores, which are opposite each other in rotation. All indications are that it is in almost unfired condition. Plating at the muzzle is perfect, and there are some very light scratches on the frame.

Any ideas about the value?
Date of manufacture?
Will Smith still refinish nickel plated firearms, and if so, at what cost?

Thank you for your help.

God Bless America and...
NEVER Forget WACO
NEVER, EVER Forget 911
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Comments

9 comments

Date Votes
  • nmyers
    I have no idea when it was made, but I don't see where that should matter. Older S&W's in mint condition are quite collectible, but they immediately become only "shooters" when used as a hockey puck. A lot of us like them, even mutilated; I would think that $200-250 would be a fair price, but I'm sure others will disagree, maybe in both directions.

    I don't know if S&W does replating, but recent work I've had done by a quality shop wasn't cheap. Expect to pay > $200. Poor quality plating isn't worth doing, period. If you're not happy with the way the gun looks now, pass on it.

    Neal
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  • allechalley
    I think nmyers is pretty much on target. It might be worth more or less depending on the mood of the market(goes up or down sort of like hemlines) and how mercinary you want to be. The scuffing sounds like either holster wear or being in a drawer that was pulled open a lot.

    You might want to ask others about using something like Flitz or similiar to try polishing a little. I am unfamiliar with the proper use of the product, but heard it can work wonders. You have to be carefull as the plating is not all that thick. Replating can be cost prohibitive, since if I recall, they have to strip the whole part down and start over the plating.
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  • Laredo Lefty
    Doug.... They quit making the model 36 in Nov 1999. Yours was made about the middle of 1981.

    They were made in both blue steel and nickle versions, but I have seen a lot more blued ones than nickle.

    The product code for yours should be 101516. The values Neal mentioned are about right for "good" to "very good" condition, with up to $300.00 for excellent cond.

    Joe
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  • Colt Super
    Thank you, guys. Anyone every here of using toothpaste to polish a nickel plated weapon??

    It sounds like it might work.

    I think I'll offer $200, if I can't clean it up, easily.

    God Bless America and...
    NEVER Forget WACO
    NEVER, EVER Forget 911
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  • punchie
    Doug
    Heard of it and done it. Flitz is much easier to clean up after and does as good or better. Jewelers rouge (pink or white) also works fine.

    AN ARMED SOCIETY IS A POLITE SOCIETY
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  • Colt Super
    Thanks, everyone. SP - you've got me confused with Son Dave W - he lives in Ca. I however, am fortunate enough to live in gun-friendly Orygun.

    God Bless America and...
    NEVER Forget WACO
    NEVER, EVER Forget 911
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  • moose56
    As others have said, the 200-250 range is usually the word in my area as well. I had purchased a nickle plated model 37 S&W (Airweight model) few years back for $125. It was a 38 Special and had not been fired. If nothing else haggle with the person. Make a low offer and let him counter offer, you might be surprised with the results.

    Moose
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  • JudgeColt
    As far as the cylinder and frame scratches go, I have polished up some very rough-looking nickel-plated guns. I remember a nickel Smith Model 19 that had seen heavy police duty that looked like it had been dragged down a gravel road. It polished up to look almost new.

    I use a fairly large Dremel muslin polishing wheel in a Dremel (at slow speed) and a jeweler's rouge-like product (Dremel sells it and I think it is just called "Polishing Compound" or some such) to level the scratches and take the sharp edges off the deep scratches by polishing across them (be careful not to polish through the nickel to where you start to see the copper below), followed up with a hand-polish using the same product. By keeping the wheel moving over the surface, swirl marks will be avoided and there will be less chance of polishing through the nickel.

    On a recent inexpensive nickel revolver (an early Model R-100 High Standard Sentinel rarely seen in nickel) where someone had scratched a name on the front strap, I sanded the letters with very fine sandpaper to cut off the raised edges and make them level with the surrounding area, followed by a polish as described. It is now almost impossible to see the name unless the light is just right.

    I therefore think the drawer-jiggle damage on this revolver will be easy to completely remove. Good luck.
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  • Colt Super
    Thanks for all your help, everyone. I offerred $200. He's thiinking about it.

    God Bless America and...
    NEVER Forget WACO
    NEVER, EVER Forget 911
    0

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