Flintlock won't fire
Being new to muzzleloaders I wasn't too suprised when me newly acquired T/C Renegade Flintlock would not want to fire. A new flint would produce a good spark 2 or three times before the end would round out and not spark well. I kept the primer powder below an open touch hole and even if I got ignition of the primer I usually would not get it to fire. After 2 hours I could only get 4 rounds off. I think I need a lot help. Is there a muzzleloaders group in southern California where a newbie might get a lesson or two?[:(!].
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I don't live in Kalifornia but perhaps, if I can ask a few questions we might be able to solve the problem.
Were you using FFFFG (4f) powder to prime the pan? If not I suggest using the FFFFG (4f) powder to prime with and FFFG (3F) down the bore as the main charge. You shouldn't have to prime any more than 1/3 of the pan.....just enough to get a good flash down the touch hole. Also, have you checked your touch hole to make sure you don't have any obstructions between the priming pan and the main charge? And last but not least, when the flint strikes the frizzen and sparks...is the frizzen opening far enough to drop the spark to the priming pan?
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Sounds to me like your flint is fouled. Carefully wipe the flint off with rag that has a LITTLE bit of gasoline on it. Let it dry off completely! Be sure to never touch the flint with your fingers, as the natural oil on your fingers can cause the flint not to spark. This is what I was taught a while back and it works for me. Let me know how it goes! - Toe [:)] 0 -
Remember Powder, Patch then Ball. Not being cute, I have forgot to put powder in and ramed a patch round ball down the barrel.[V][V] 0 -
First of all when you put a new flint in, put the hammer at 1/2 cock. Close the frizzen over the pan then put the flint into the hammer jaws with the flint almost touching the frizzen. There should be no more that a 1/8 inch gap between frizzen and flint at 1/2 cock. Now are you putting the flint in bevel up or bevel down? Flintlocks are funny, some spark better with the bevel up while others spark better with bevel down! Check to see which yours sparks beter, up or down. Are you useing good flint? The quality of the flint does make a huge difference. I prefer the black english flint myself. Also are you useing the right size flints? Flints range fron 1/2 inch all the way up to 1 inch in size. When you put your flint in the hammer jaws you do not want the edge of the flint striking the barrel and also use a piece of leather or thin hammered lead between the flint and the jaws of the hammer. If you do all this and still do not get a good spark then check the frizzen. If it is fouled it will not spark right. If the frizzen is not fouled then there is a chance it needs to be re-hardened. Now that is if it is not sparking right. If it is sparking right after all of the above then check the touch hole to see if it is partially clogged as others mentioned. I run a touch hole pick and run it into the touch hole with the charge in the barrel. This puts a hole in the charge for the flash to get into better. It works on finiky rifles while others do not need it. All rifles are different. I have 3 flinters and each have their own funny things that are different from the others. Once you figure out the problem you should get many shots with a good flintlock before you need to change the flint. Hope this helps.
God protect me from my friends, I can take care of my enemies...0 -
As jjmitchell pointed out you might adjust your flint...it sounds as though you may have it set too far back or foward and it's slamming the frizzen too hard rather than just scraping it and sparking. 0 -
Sounds to me like maybe two problems: no sparking from the frizzen/flint and if you do get ignition, no barrel powder ignition. You have received very good information from the above posters, now.....get that flint sparking (it may involve playing around a bit to get the right distance from the frizzen and to see if it works best bevel up or down) and clear that touch hole! Emery
"Well done is better than well said"
Ben Franklin0 -
Many good points above--an advanced lesson in muzzleloading.
Quote: "and even if I got ignition of the primer I usually would not get it to fire"
Make sure your chamber is not damp when you drop the main powder charge. Just a little dampness can make the powder not ignite, or hard to ignite.
My humble 2-cents worth,
Rafter-S0 -
If you're at all handy, you can replace the factory frizzen with a hardened one and replace the factory touch hole with a larger one. Did so on a short-barrelled .50 cal Hawken type and have had as many as 14 "ppfffttt-BOOMS" in a row. I also use English flints but that's just a personal preference. 0 -
Thompson-Center stands behind their products. After you exhaust all of the good advice you have received from the others above if you are still not getting a good spark you should contact T/C directly and they may even provide you with a new frizzen at no cost. Check them out and good luck with your problem.
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Trashballs Prefer Defenseless Victims!!!!0 -
One other thing regarding your flint; make sure it is as wide as your frizzen and see that it does not hit the side of the barrel as it is fired. Emery
"Well done is better than well said"
Ben Franklin0
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