300 WIN MAG BRASS OVERSIZE
I brought some 300 win mag nickle fired brass at an estate sale yesterday. When I tried to resize them the shell would get stuck about 1/2 inch
from the bottom of the die. Had to use the shell extractor on it to get it out. All 200 of them were like that. Used my 12 ton hyd. press to push the die down to the bottom and then a 1/4 inch drill rod to push the resized case back out. Now they all fit in my REM stainless SENDRO. I using a Redding die and a DILLON 550 press. There were no signs of excess pressure on the cases.
Q: WHAT was this guy shooting these in to get them this OVERSIZE???
"START THE BALL ROLLING THERE, TECTOR"
from the bottom of the die. Had to use the shell extractor on it to get it out. All 200 of them were like that. Used my 12 ton hyd. press to push the die down to the bottom and then a 1/4 inch drill rod to push the resized case back out. Now they all fit in my REM stainless SENDRO. I using a Redding die and a DILLON 550 press. There were no signs of excess pressure on the cases.
Q: WHAT was this guy shooting these in to get them this OVERSIZE???
"START THE BALL ROLLING THERE, TECTOR"
0
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Better try a different case lube next time.
Mobuck0 -
Y'know, at just $34 a hundred for Federal Gold Medal, I'm worried you are trying to save too much in your reloading quest.
Since nickeled brass is "harder" due to the nickle's strength and lubricity, I'm concerned that if those cases were fired in something other than a 300WM, your efforts at resizing them may have work-hardened the brass/nickel and it may have become brittle.
I only use my cases for belted magnums 4 times, due to the pressure and possibility of case failure. And I shoot a LOT of belted magnum.
Oh yeah, I don't use nickled cases because they're too darn shiny!
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
My first thought is that the brass you got is actually from "proof loads". Not really too likely unless you happen to live near a gun factory, though.... Proof brass is extremely difficult to resize, and actually shouldn't be reloaded at all. I don't suppose the cases had paint (red or purple) on the heads and primers did it? That would be a sign that it was proof brass. Assuming the brass wasn't de-primed, did the primers look excessivly flat? High pressure an be another cause of difficult resizing.
Bad thing about belted mags is that they use the belt on the case for headspacing, which allows the shoulder of the case to push forward when fired. This often makes resizing difficult, to say the least. I've seen rifles with chambers that allowed the shoulder to move by as much as .030" to .040" (with factory ammo). If you full-length resize after each firing, it shortens the useful life of the brass dramatically. I usually get at least six full power loadings (with below max loads) before pitching my belted mag cases in the recycle bucket.
One of the "tricks" I use when loading for belted mag rounds is to fire-form new brass with lighter loads than I plan to hunt with. Then I avoid full-length resizing the brass, period. I adjust my sizer die so as to barely "kiss" the shoulder of the case, just enough to allow the rounds to chamber without resistance when closing the bolt.
Mark0 -
These were std. FEDERAL 300 win mag cases. No signs of flat primers or any colors on the head stamp. And I used Dilion one shot case lube very genoursly on the cases. I like the nickel cases because they are easy to i.d. when you need to go to black tip armour. You never know when you have to punch a car door at 500 yards. They look cool too!!!
"START THE BALL ROLLING THERE, TECTOR"0 -
Punch a car door at 500yds.?
Almost any bullet you put into a 300WM will do that. Even factory ammo still carries over 1000 ft.lbs. at 500yds.
It's not like everyone has a hardside Hummer out there. Or a Bradley.
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0
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