Waxing barrells & other metal parts?
A thought just occurred to me in reading some of the threads on this board: If you had a nice, shiny, blued gunbarrell and other nice, shiny blued parts, would it help/hurt/make no difference if you used a good auto wax on them? My first instinct is that it'd be bad in the long run because most waxes contain some sort of abrasive, don't they? (If not, then why do auto waxes feel gritty?)
I understand that for some blued surfaces stuff like WD-40 is a big no-no, and that generally any decent gun-oil is all you need. But sometimes it's fun to speculate slightly outside the box...
I understand that for some blued surfaces stuff like WD-40 is a big no-no, and that generally any decent gun-oil is all you need. But sometimes it's fun to speculate slightly outside the box...
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Many auto waxes contain not only mild abrasives, but chemical cleaners. Be careful of contents.
One of the best film waxes in an aersol is Boe Shield.
Made for Boeing Aircraft for parts protection & storage. Quite a few fishing shops sell it for high quality reel & rods.
Happy Bullet Holes!0 -
TR: Works for me! Use non-abrasive (made for clear-coat finish) paste wax.
Morty
Have fun, be careful!0 -
An alternative is furniture polish or neutral color shoe polish. 0 -
FLITZ makes a gun wax that good for metal, wood, ect. It does not seem abrasive.
I especially like it on parkerized guns...it help to make a flatter(more matte) finish to reduce reflections.0 -
Get Novum Solutions Armadillo. It will give a hr=ard wax protective surface on your gun. Ken Novum is a member here on the board, and gave us some samples to try. Really good stuff. Here is a link to their page. Armadillo is down near the bottom of the page. Check it out.
http://www.novumsolutions.com/Products.html
How you doin'!
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The old original Simonize Paste Wax (in the round yellow can) makes an excellent protectant for the exterior of a gun.
It has no abrasives and has a high Carnuba Wax (a very hard wax) content.0 -
Xracer, that's the stuff I've used for over 30 years; I was gonna poste the name, but the can's so old I couldn't read it!
BTW, I use RemOil aerosol or Boeshield on the BARRELS, because they tend to heat up and get shiny with just the Simonize.
That other thread from cameron made me re-read my bottle of Hoppe's No.9; it actually says not to "soak" nickle/chrome plated items in it.
I 'spose it wouldn't hurt to degrease any part you plan to wax.
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
the original poster of this topic said that you cant use wd40 on blued surfaces. I have never heard this before and was wondering as to why. 0 -
The reason I said WD-40 was a no-no is that I've read threads on this forum before that said WD-40 will harm some types of blued finishes. I think part of the reason may be that WD-40 is not only a lubricant, but acts as (or contains?) a solvent. And I know for certain that WD-40 is something to be kept away from your cartridges, as it can kill the primers.
Help me out here, fellas!0 -
Hi. You do not use WD40 on just out of the tank blue jobs. Will remove fresh blue. (Brownells recomendation with blueing salts)Do not spray it into parts. ( bolts, triggers, etc.) If it sits for a period o time it will turn to honey. realy gums up the works. It makes a good cleaning solvent, and used with 0000 steel wool, will remove light rust from barrels etc. Not recomended for wood. Geri 0
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