Optics
need advice on scopes in 2-7x for a416 rigby. price range up to 500
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I know this is a forum for guns. But I'm looking to buy a good pair
of Binoculars. I dont want to pay alot. I have a friend who bought some Brunton Lite Tec 10x42 from Cabelas for $99.00. I looked at Brunton's web site and read about them. Their MSRP is $239.00. Can anybody tell me what they think about them or how good they are? Mt friend bought them for his wife. He has compared them to his Lica's that he paid $800.00 for. The only different he says is in low light he can tell a difference. Any help would be great.0 -
I cannot help you with that particular model, but I can give you some back ground on optics. Today, you can buy better optics in the mid-price range ($400-$600 for binos) than you could buy for any price just 30 years ago. Not surprisingly, the $40-$100 binos are also better than they were then as well. With optics you get what you pay for, and you must decide what you need them to do. If your friend's binos seem suitable to you, they may well be, but if you use them a lot in scouting and hunting, as I do, you will find the limitations of inexpensive binos pretty quickly and likely buy yet another pair. The differences are in the construction, glass, and coatings. Ideally, you want Bak-4 prisms and fully multi-coated optics. Those prisms are the standard for decent quality, and the multi-coatings reduce reflection and refraction at each glass/air interface, including internally. Thus more light, over a broader range of the spectrum is passing through to your eyes to give you a brighter picture and good color rendering. Both can be important in hunting, particularly at the ends of the day when the light grows dim. I use a pair of binos at just under $400 for hunting and they are nearly the equals of my Leicas. They are the Eagle Optics Rangers 8x42. At the low end of the price range, you will get higher quality glasses if you buy penta prisms rather than roof prisms. At around $300-$400 and up, roof prisms are the way to go.
Try your friends binos for an afternoon looking at birds and looking for game and stay out until sunset to see how they are in dim light. If they seem suitable for your use, great. If not here are a couple of sites that sell binos and other optics at very nice prices: www.bearbasin.com www.eagleoptics.com
My heros have always killed cowboys.0 -
You picked the right forum for the question. Optics are a frequent question in this forum and there is a lot good information given.
Another good pair of low end binoculars is the Bausch & Lomb Legacy 10x50 ($125). Field & Stream desribes them as "pretty darn good for the price".
HeDog is right in you get what you pay for but if you are just looking for a temporary fix for binos, then some of the low end binos will work fine. They are close in the clarity of good binos but just not as durable.
Mad Dog0 -
I can not tell you what kind of quality this binocuar has but the information I found matches up very closely to the Bushnell Trophy
In the time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
-Beck (1993)0 -
Wrong button I wasn't finished yet. They both have the BAK4 prism which is a must, both are waterproof, and both have a similar field of view. I have used the Trophys for several years and have been very happy with there duribilty and brightness. You might take a look at these. http://www.bushnell.com/productinfo/binoculars/trophy.html When looking at roof prism binoculars its always nice to get a pair that is phase coated. This will helps with having a clear picture through the full field of view. My trophy's don't have this and I haven't seen any problems with them but on some other roof prism binos I have seen distortion in the lens when they weren't phase coated. If you decide to go with a porro prism binocular phase coating is not neccesary.
In the time of chimpanzees I was a monkey
-Beck (1993)0 -
Guns and Glass............Your expertise please. 0 -
Bruntion is bascially a binocular marketer, not a manufacturer. They do have alot of good other products.
Sometimes in optics the hype we all read is relative to mathematical equations, and labratory measuring devices. They are so accurate, they surpass the capability of the human eye,....which means there are things seen in the lab that you can't see, and don't mean anything to the average sportsman. But will to photographers, medical industry, etc.
Examples: > 99.++% light transmission figures(optics DON"T gather light)is for ONLY one lens...not the whole system.
> Lens coatings, and types of crystal (glass) can be so color precise, that it means nothing to the averge hunter, target shooter,...except alot of extra $$$$$$$$$$ for more perfect colors.
Even Phase coating needed only on roof (straight tubes) prism binocs is great if your shooting pics for magazines, and need 'perfect" color. But does the average 'Joe" need it?
It won't show lens distortion, but a color 'out of phase'.
Light travels in wavelengths, kind of like radio waves, and if not 'tuned in' right, there is distortion.
In better glass, the averge guy (90%)can't see it.
It however DOES become more important at,...
>Higher powers-10X on up,
>Smaller objective lenses, which make the exit pupils smaller,
>Longer viewing times, like glassing for long range targets/animals.
One of the first things I look for in field binocs is construction. Someone wrote about barrel alignment. Very important!!!
If both DON"T STAY colliminated, each eye is seeing a different picture (overlaps in the center) and is forced to focus & refocus & focus & refocus,...on and on and on.
Eye muscles get strained, vision WILL get blurry (out of BIfocus), low grade headaches WILL occur. Especially with higher magnifacation.
Soory, have to go. Will pick up later.
Happy Bullet Holes!0
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