What Weaver Bases Do I Use?
I've milled off the little stripper-clip ridge on the back of the receiver on my Swede Mauser, smoothed it with a file and body-paper, and hit it with the Blue Wonder, so now it's ready for drilling and tapping. I'd like to use Weaver-style scope bases here, and I need to know: What sizes do I need for the front and back?
The reason I ask is that the front part of the receiver seems higher than the back, OPPOSITE to what I've observed with my Yugo and 98K Mausers. I'm trying to get bases mounted which are as dead-level with the axis of the bore as I can manage...
I have yet to drop the barrel/receiver assembly back into the stock and level everything to check the relative levelness of the two #45 Weaver bases I do have, but I did it without the stock by leveling the barrel with a magnetic torpedo level as close to the end of the barrel as I could get it, and placing the bases on the receiver, and the level SEEMED to be telling me that the rear base was too low.
The reason I ask is that the front part of the receiver seems higher than the back, OPPOSITE to what I've observed with my Yugo and 98K Mausers. I'm trying to get bases mounted which are as dead-level with the axis of the bore as I can manage...
I have yet to drop the barrel/receiver assembly back into the stock and level everything to check the relative levelness of the two #45 Weaver bases I do have, but I did it without the stock by leveling the barrel with a magnetic torpedo level as close to the end of the barrel as I could get it, and placing the bases on the receiver, and the level SEEMED to be telling me that the rear base was too low.
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#55 & #46 is what Brownells calls for in their chart. 0 -
trstone- Keep us up to speed with your project. I am interested in what kind of groups you get.
By the way, what marking do you have on the stock disc?
Check out what Mr. Crufflestopheles did with his Swede.
http://www.angelfire.com/realm/cruffler/m96.htm0 -
The project is nearly complete---the next step is to send off the barrel/receiver/bolt to Michigan to a gunsmith I found out about here on GB for drilling & tapping for some Weaver mounts, and to have him work his magic at replacing the bolt-handle, which he does BEAUTIFULLY. I had a machinist take a few inches off the barrel to make a "sporty shorty" out of it, and I've refinished the stock and handguard. The little disk you mention is missing, however, and I plan on replacing it with a 1910 coin of the appropriate size. I'm hoping I can find a 1910 Swedish coin that will fill the circular hole nicely, but if I have to I'll use a 1910 half-dollar, which is also very pretty.... 0 -
Did your machinist have to unscrew the barrel from the receiver in order to cut and crown it?
A local gunsmith was going to do mine, he said he would have to unscrew it first and it would cost $150, I said forget it.0
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