Sawing off a Bit 'O Barrel (help)
After following the sage advice given by the generous folks of this forum, I've cured my Mauser misfire problem, and am off on my next lunatic project...
I've purchased a Swede Mauser in 6.5mm X 55, and I'm going to have it scoped (which means file down rear of reciever, oh fun, then drill 'n tap, and get the bolt-handle replaced); the thing is, I want to make a "sporty shorty" out of it, by cutting about 4 or 5 inches off the barrel so it sticks out an inch or two beyond the nose cap. I'm not quite insane enough to try this myself, so I figured I'd probably have the smith do this. I have a machinist friend who has a lathe, so doing a neat and flush job would be no problem, but I *think* that, once cut off, it's critical to have the barrel recrowned, which requires a special tool, does it not? And how complicated of a procedure is it?
I've purchased a Swede Mauser in 6.5mm X 55, and I'm going to have it scoped (which means file down rear of reciever, oh fun, then drill 'n tap, and get the bolt-handle replaced); the thing is, I want to make a "sporty shorty" out of it, by cutting about 4 or 5 inches off the barrel so it sticks out an inch or two beyond the nose cap. I'm not quite insane enough to try this myself, so I figured I'd probably have the smith do this. I have a machinist friend who has a lathe, so doing a neat and flush job would be no problem, but I *think* that, once cut off, it's critical to have the barrel recrowned, which requires a special tool, does it not? And how complicated of a procedure is it?
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I've had success using an old intake valve from an Opel on the one crown I have recut. I welded a spud onto the face of the valve that would chuck into my drill. Then I smeared valve grinding compound on the tapered portion of the valve, inserted it into the freshly cut barrel, gave it about 5 minutes soft pressure in a rotating sort of motion (to give it a more "dished" crown), and clean it off inside/out and shoot 3 to see if it's off-center or what.
Took a coupla tries to get it dished enough and centered, but I had it done in an afternoon.
I added leather washers with Crest toothpaste after I'd done most of the metal removal to polish the muzzle/crown, it looks great!
NEXT TIME; I'd use a drill press or some other guide to keep from futzing with the bore alignment, I'd also do it over a coupla days (burnt toothpaste smell, anyone?), to keep the garage liveable.
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
No need to grind off the clip guide. There are bases designed to fit over the guide. A crowning tool is much more accurate to assure the muzzle and crown are cut square and not to costly. Check with E.C.T.L.L.C. at 866-711-8323 or e-mail eliotct@medford.net. 0 -
Millet makes scope bases to fit the 96 or 38 receiver without grinding. www.brownells.com will have the bases and the muzzle crowning tools.
Keep off the Ridgeline0 -
[:0]There's a tool? Man, I gotta get a Brownell's Catalog!!!
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0 -
JUST HAVE YOUR FRIEND SET HIS TOOL HOLDER AT 11 DEG. FROM THE CENTERLINE, AND DO A FINE CUT. FINISH W/320 GRIT W/D SAND PAPER PUSHED AGAINST THE MUZZEL WITH HIS FINGER JUST TO TAKE THE FINE EDGE OFF. MUCH MORE ACCUTATE THAN THE OLD ROUNDED TYPE MUZZEL CROWN 0 -
If that's all it takes, Mike, then I can have my machinist buddy do it for me. Point of clarification: When you say "11 degrees from the centerline", are you talking about machining a 79 degree slant on the inside surface of the muzzle where the rifling is? Just so I understand what the procedure should be, correct me if I'm wrong:
(1) Cut barrel off at desired point with lathe at 90 deg. angle as
true as possible;
(2) Machine down outer edge of cut for esthetic purposes;
(3) Do a fine 11 degree, SHALLOW cut on inside edge, and polish
smooth.
Is this correct?0
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