Headspace gage???
I do a lot with 94 Winchesters, so I thought it would be a good thing to have a headspace gage since all 94 calibers can be checked with one gage. I bought a 30-30 "field" headspace gage from Numrich. I have tried it on every 94 I own and it closes completely on every one, including a brand new, never fired .30-30 rifle. I was under the impression that a field gage should not close on an action if the headspace was within tolerance. Should I have bought a "no-go" gage?
I removed the extractor before using the gage.
Comments please!
Thank you,
Taperloc.
I removed the extractor before using the gage.
Comments please!
Thank you,
Taperloc.
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Yes, a "No Go" gauge is what you need; and I'm puzzled as to why your bolts would close on a "Field" gauge unless you are really cranking up on the lever. But, the correct way to perform this task is to disconnect the bolt from the lever, strip the bolt of all internal and attached parts, and try to push it closed with your thumb into the fully closed position. A lever can exert a great deal of mechanical advantage/force, which is really what that kind of action is all about, and the actions tend to be a little springy with a little slop to allow for insertion and extraction of dirty ammo; so it's difficult to get a true reading unless you perform the task as stated above. Getting back to the field gauge--they're sort of a strange item to begin with. Their origin was with the military to gauge the condition of rifles that were out of headspace and which would accept a "No Go" gauge, but which still could continue in service under emergency conditions without injuring the user. They really have no application in the civilian shooting world, as anything accepting a "No Go" gauge is considered unsafe and needs repaired. 0 -
WITH ALL DUE RESPECT FOR DER G. I DISAGREE ABOUT THE USE OF THE 'FIELD' GUAGE. THE GO/NO GO GUAGES ARE USED WHEN BARRELING A RIFLE, IF THE GO GUAGE CAN BE CONSIDERED .000" NO/GO IS ABOUT .005" AND FIELD IS .015" (GIVE OR TAKE A COUPLE OF THOUS.). FOR MOST 'HUNTING' TYPE RIFLES SOME WEAR FROM USE IS TO BE EXPECTED AND AS LONG AS A RIFLE WILL NOT CLOSE ON A FIELD GUAGE IT MAY BE USED. TARGET OR MATCH TYPE RIFLE ARE ANOTHER STORY (MORE ACCRURACY REQUIRED). M-94 WINCHESTERS ARE NOTED FOR 'SHOOTING LOOSE' AND I'VE SEEN THESE WITH .020+ HEADSPACE THAT WHERE STILL BEING USED. THAT SAID I'D CHECK YOUR GUAGE TO BE SURE IT IS MADE TO PROPER SPEC'S. MIC' A .30/30 RIM AND THEN MIC' YOUR GAUGE RIM, IT SHOULD BE THE CASE RIM THICKNESS + .015" +/-. 0 -
What brand to buy? Are some better than others? I see used, go/ no go at gun shows.. How do you tell if they are any good?
It will hurt you, More than it will hurt me..
Life Member... N R A
American Legion, MECU, MWCA, SMSC, BSC, NASDS
Thanks for all the help!0 -
Well, I guess opinions are what makes life interesting. Personally, I wouldn't want a lever action with 3xNoGo discharging just forward of my eye![B)] 0 -
NEITHER WOULD I BUT WHEN YOU TELL SOME OLD DEER HUNTER IT WILL COST 4 TIMES WHAT HE PAID FOR HIS RIFLE TO FIX A PROBLEM HE DIDN'T KNOW HE HAD THE USUAL ANSWER IS HOLY SH*T, AND THEN 'I'LL LET YOU KNOW'. 0 -
I was asking before. if all Headspace Gage ( go/no go ) are the same? What to look for, and if you see them used at a Gun Show. How do you trell if they are any good??
It will hurt you, More than it will hurt me..
Life Member... N R A
American Legion, MECU, MWCA, SMSC, BSC, NASDS
Thanks for all the help!0 -
Bang:
You can measure a headspce gauge to make certain it is within spec. Having said that, they are by design machined to precise tolerances, and it is hard to imagine a manufacturer marketing out-of-spec gauges, given the liability issues. Given the manner of use, it is also hard to imagine that they could be worn out of spec.
I would have no concern about buying them from any reputable firm. If you want to buy a used set at a show, why not ask the seller why he is selling? Chances are you will find he has no need for them any longer, as opposed to any problem.
redcedars0
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