shotgun reloading question
hi, was wondering if anyone could help. i'm new to reloading and have a problem. using 12 ga. hulls(tried several) figure 8 wads and solo 1000. the wad doesn't seem to get pushed down far enough, the pellets are above the bottom crimp line and the crimp is convex. mec told me to set the shot tube at five lines, no way. i'm down around 4 and its better, but if i go any lower, the sizer doesn't work correctly. anyone ever have this problem? how to solve without changeing wads? thanks for any help
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Hello Jag, as a beginner to reloading I would suggest that you get your self a very good loading manual, (Most manufactuers will furnish one with their powder). You didn't specify which hulls you are trying to load nor did you say which size wad you are trying to use. It is very important to match the proper materials. Example: AA hulls, 19.5grains of Solo 1000 (bushing #33) claybuster 1&1/8oz wad gives an excellent skeet & Sporting clays load. This is equivalent to a 3 dram load with mild recoil. Pressure is approx, 8900LUP. Hope you find this information helpful.
Clays0 -
I agree with CLAYS. Need more information. Type MEC, Type wad (in Oz.), grains dropped, type hull.
After loading thousands over 30 years I can tell you that consistent components make life a lot easier. Once you've got the right combination it's not worth picking up any type hulls just cause they're free. (this is coming from someone so cheap that I used to reload used wads and screen used shot because it was the only way I could afford to shoot) A manual is well worth the effort and they're free.
Good Luck0 -
hey, thanks for input. i have tried recommended recipes. although the first was recommended by a friend,and used a #34 bushing-a lot of powder- the others were from book. its a mec 9000g, 1 1/8 fig 8 wads and hulls tried were win aa, several remingtons from the cheap 3 dollars a box models to the gold nitro's. federals, estate's, etc. i'm currently using #31 bushing, about as light as i can go. a friend also recommended putting small pieces of tape in the shot part of charge bar, to cut down on a few pellets. i've only weighted 1 shot sample, was about 12 grains over 1 1/8 ounce, not sure how much this might affect things. so i'll try his idea and i'll keep at it!
thanks again0 -
OK JAG,
We're sure you've got the right components and amounts, right!
(might try a different wad)
1. Check that the pre crimp station (prior to final crimp and size) has the proper tool (6 or 8 star crimp) for the hull type. Adjust the pre crimp as low as possible by lowering until it disfigures the mouth of the hull, then back up until there's no disfigurement.
2. Final crimp/sizing stage. Back the final crimp pin (center flat part with adjustable screw) all the way out. With your thumb and index finger holding just above the brass base slowly bring the die down until you feel side pressure on the hull, or until the final bottom of the stroke. If you look at the mouth of the hull it should still be open. Turn the final crimp screw in (down) one half turn and repeat the above process until the mouth of the hull looks flat (90 degrees from the hull side). The end "may not" look like a factory load in all cases.
I highly recommend that you try this with AA hulls and Claybuster or AA wads. Once you find the settings with this hull, the others should work. DO NOT use any hulls that had a paper end on the original hull (the crimp will not start right for you, you can use these after you learn the easy way), do not use any paper hulls.
Good luck0 -
thanks again for input, i'm always amazed how people will take their time to answer questions so thouroghly. ive been able to get it pretty good. may try some more tweaking with the crimping stations. it may be coincidence, but the rubber bushing on the bar was well worn and putting in a new one may have kept some shot out. not sure 'cause at the same time i was able to lower the wad rammer some. again, thanks for input. 0
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