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Colt SAA trigger

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6 comments

  • v35
    Yes but single action parts are overly expensive so it's probably best to let a gunsmith do it. The first thing is to examine the condition of the trigger tip, the sear notch and the trigger spring. Sear notches and trigger tips get buggered up and need to be recut with a fine stone. Blades of the combination trigger/cylinder bolt spring commonly break rather than go soft.
    Trigger pull has to do with the angle of the sear notch. If you continue the line of the the notch it should NEVER pass below the center of the hammer screw hole. Increasing this angle above the center increases trigger pull. Deepening the notch will also increase it. Care has to be taken in altering trigger pulls that the the trigger will clear both the safety and the loading notches after it exits the full cock notch. Many SAA's triggers and hammer notches are buggered up from falling into these notches during careless handling.
    A triangular, Hard Arkansas stone and a steady hand is needed to do this work. Perfectly fitting screwdrivers are needed so as not to mess up the screw heads and the bluing.
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  • bigcitybill
    v35 I have a fairly decent New Frontier Buntline .22LR with a fairly rotten trigger. Long scratchy pull like shaving with a dull razor. Questions: How good a gunsmith do I need and how much is it likely to cost?
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  • Laredo Lefty
    Originally posted by TOOLS1
    Was just shooting my wifes Colt .45 SAA 1st gen. It is a later production model made abot 7 years ago. It shot nice and was very accuret. But it has a hair trigger.

    If the gun is a 1st gen it would have to be at least 68 years old.
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  • RCrosby
    Lefty's right on the 1st. gen. age. I'm wondering if you meant "70" instead of "7", yes?
    At any rate, another thing to check is the tension on the screw at the front of the grip, near the base. Some folks back off on that screw to relieve tension on the mainspring and thus lower the trigger pull. Another common practice is to put a leather spacer between the base of the mainspring and the frame. It would be nice if either of these were contributing significantly to your problem since they are both do it yourself fixes. If not, you might contact Ray Meibaum (sp?). He's a good SAA man, and doesn't try to retire on the income from each job.
    Hammer/trigger work, like they said, is definately NOT a go it on your own trail.
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  • Old-Colts
    All, this thread is from 2003 and TOOLS1 hasn't posted since 02/07/2005, so he might not respond to any posts.

    Also, I don't remember the exact date, but Ray Meibaum passed away some time ago. However, Fred Rose does some good work in the area of hammer/trigger rebuilds.
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  • v35
    Reply to Big City Bill. I did my own 2nd gen trigger pull in the early '60s when I got it and was interested in getting some accuracy out of it. It breaks at 18 ounces and has a trigger stop.
    Today, you're playing with expensive parts in addition to safety concerns.
    A rough, gritty pull can often be improved by careful stoning of the mating surfaces of trigger sear and hammer full cock notch. Angles should not be changed.
    I also straightened the trigger to contact the triggerguard when the hammer is released.
    The trigger stop helped accuracy.
    This early 2nd Gen has oversized chambers as did 1st Gen45s. After a lot of split cases and communications with Remington and Colt, I got a letter from Colt that they reduced chamber dimensions so later SAAs are likely to be more accurate.
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