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Toung oil or boiled linseed oil?

knucklehead14
I have a new stock and forend for my shotgun.
I was wondering what finish to use on this.
Toung oil or boiled linseed oil?
It is walnut.
Thanks very much for any help.
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Comments

9 comments

Date Votes
  • p3skyking
    Boiled Lindseed Oil is the way to go. Lots of good solid reasons. If you try tung oil, do it on a hammer handle or something first and you will come to the same conclusion.
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  • timbroman
    Knucklehead, I've used both and I can't argue with Skyking, but they do give different finishes. Assuming equally clean, smooth-sanded, stained/sealed wood, it has been my experience that tung will produce a harder (almost plastic), deeper, glossier finish but the downside is that its hardness yields a surface finish that is more visibly (not more easily but more visibly) scratched or snagged if one is a little careless in the field. A first-rate tung finish looks like that hi-gloss Browning finish. The linseed oil has given me a softer, duller (matte) finish given equal number of coats, and I have never used fewer than three coats with either. You can use fingertips or cheesecloth to apply either. When you're done, if you've used your fingertips you should have little if any fingerprints for a while. The key to both is first rate surface preparation BEFORE applying the oil, then thorough superfine steelwool buffing between coats and clean up all dust and wire bits before the next coat. After the final coat (and you can quit when its where you like it) a light and thorough buffing then a real nice coat or two of Johnson's paste wax (just cause that's what we have)or similar, buff it to a sheen and its pretty nearly water-proofed. Repeat that waxing when you do a good cleaning and oiling of the steel, or whenever you get the urge. I have found that the linseed oil can be reapplied later without a whole lots of special surface work where the tung needs more judicious buffing with steelwool. To me the tung will fill those snags better and yield an almost mirror-like smoothness. That linseed oil though is a miracle worker around the place...apply it to your shovel, wood and steel for long lasting finish...to saw blades, axes, chains, etc. It makes wood and old iron look real nice and protects it too - sure is nicer to haul a clean chain out the box than a rust-dusted one. Good luck with your project. Jim

    timbroman@aol.com
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  • nmyers
    The solvents used in most wood finishes are carcinogenic, mutagenic & toxic. Therefore, you should always wear protective gloves & work in a well ventilated area. Without these precautions, the chemicals can be inhaled, or absorbed transdermally (through the skin).

    Neal
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  • 00scoots
    I have had excellent results with "artists grade" of boiled linseed oil (available at art supply stores). It may be just my imagination, but I feel this grade of linseed oil is finer and penetrated the wood better than "standard" boiled linseed oil. I've also refinished a stock with tung oil with the same results as mentioned in a previous reply.

    The BIG key to a really good finish is stock preparation and patience - don't rush the project as the finish is drying - this takes time. Also, before applying the finish "whisker" the stock about 4 times with a rub down of 000 or 0000 (if you can find it) steel wool after each whiskering.



    You can never have too many guns!!!
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  • mazo kid
    "scoots" has said it well, as have all the other people responding. After whiskering the stock, your first coat of the BLO should be quite heavy and allowed to soak in for a day or 2. Then wipe the stock down and comence the rubbing process. Walnut is quite open grained and this method allows the grain to be filled without using fillers, which in my opinion, detract from the wood grain. Emery

    "Well done is better than well said"
    Ben Franklin
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  • He Dog
    You might also try the old standard "Linspeed Oil"

    http://www.huntamerica.com/linspeed/

    My heros have always killed cowboys.
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  • Der Gebirgsjager
    Chem-Pak Pro-Custom Oil Gunstock Finish, Item #209-642-009 from Brownells, retails for $10.95 for a 9 oz. can.[:D]
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  • MIKE WISKEY
    I agree with d.g., boiled linseed oil and tung oil are not very good gun stock finishs. Yes, I know they have been used for 100's of years and if done properly they even look nice but they don't do as good of a job of protecting the wood itself and they will darken over time. checm pac, true oil, linspeed ect. do a much better job over all and look better longer and are easyer to apply.
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  • Delta514
    If you are shooting for a finish like the Japanese Brownings? It's easy!

    Finish your stock with steel wool as has been suggested. Use a Min-wax or Formby stain for a darker stock, let dry completely, rub down with steelwool to blend, rub down with Tack Cloth. (be absolutely sure of a perfectly clean and dust free environment).

    Take a spray can of clear Lacquer, dust the stock from one end to the other, (do not over spray). Lacquer will dry in about 15 mins. continue process until desired effect is achieved. (can look as if dipped in Acrylic). Finish with one hand rubbed coat of "TrueOil". ~DO NOT SPRAY LACQUER OVER TRUEOIL~ If you have doubts about this procedure? Try on a test piece. Really an impressive finish and almost too simple.
    [:D]

    Ronnie G. Perkins
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