Now I did it, I sheared off a scope base screw...
I hate to even ask, but does anybody know how I can get the bottom half of my scope mount screw out of the receiver? I am sure this will have to go to a gunsmith, any suggestions?
Thanks[:(!]
Life member NRA
Thanks[:(!]
Life member NRA
0
-
What make & model of firearm? 0 -
It is a Weatherby MK5 stainless lightweight chambered for 300 Weatherby Mag.
Life member NRA0 -
Been there - Done that! Best thing to do is get the smallest drill bit you can find, try and set the bit dead center, (not the time to compromise), drill the hole, go to the next size and drill again, then if necessary find the next bit up and drill again. The walls of the screw will /or should be extremely thin by then. Take one of those Little screw drivers you get for Glasses and peal that baby right out.
Worry not; the initial Price of the Bits, or the Small Screw Driver, they will come in handy the next time you screw up (and you [:D]can recoup your money when your Buddy screws up.
Ronnie G. Perkins0 -
use a REVERSE auger drill bit they are special made bits it drills a hole like a normal bit but you do it in reverse (its just backwards) and while you do this it will more than likely unscrew itself or drill a hole and find the smallest EASY OUT Possible you pound them in place and use a cresent wrench and screw it out like normal any quality hardware/tool store will have these items
GUN CONTROL!!! Means hitting your target!!!! ((o))0 -
These things do happen. Would do as Delta 514 said, but would start
the center hole with a very small "center drill" sometimes known as
a drill-countersink. Being as it is a uneven surface a small diam.
drill will walk all over, usually unless you centerpunch it.
Hope the screw did not have "permanant Lockite " on it or it may
need heating up to about 350 degrees F. Sometimes after getting
a hole in it a taper ground Allen wrench or Bristol wrench can
be hammered into the hole and used as a broken screw extractor.
Take the other screw and measure it so you know how far in to drill.
Really should be done with a drill press and vise. If threads are
"buggered up" in the proscess you will need a bottom tap for
cleaning as a starting tap or plug tap wont do it. If you need the
drills and tap, let me know thread size and will loan them to you.
I think I have most usual taps. By the way, a .30 cal A.P. slug
with the jacket turned off makes one lovely little center punch.0 -
If you have access to a dental slow speed hand piece, put in a #8 carbide drill, put hand piece in reverse, drilling at 100/200 RPM start drilling with carbide hitting dead center of the screw. This should start to back out the screw where you can grab with a pair of needle nose pliers and back out all the way. If you do not have access to a dental hand piece a dremel with reverse should do the job.
BE QUICK - BE DEADLY!!!0 -
I am off to Sears to see what hardware tools I can turn up, I will let post my results...
Thanks
[:(]
Life member NRA0 -
IT WORKED! I bought a 4.6v Makita drill at Sears, 1/16" and a 5/64" drill bit, and a #1 Screw Extractor. I used a small punch to create a little divit in the middle of the broken screw, then very carefully started drilling. I drilled through the screw completely with the 1/16" bit, and drilled a small amount into the receiver, but I don't think it will be a problem as this is the farthest screw forward and the receiver right there is very very thick, and I only drilled maybe 1/16" to 1/32" into it. The best part is I was able to get the screw out without damaging and threads. So, I am going to put the Leupold bases and rings I ordered earlier this week on and go shooting tomorrow. Thanks everybody for the great feed back, I would not have attempted this without it. [:D][:D][:D]
Life member NRA0 -
NOT to say this is whap happened but...we have all heard you get what you pay for in optics. You also get what you pay for in bases and rings. I have stripped/broken MANY srews that accompanied 'cheap brand' bases and rings. If you have a firearm you value and do not want this experience ...or your base screws broken by heavy recoil during a hunt ...save a couple weeks longer and buy high quality ...at least the screws. Screws are available from Brownells.
Montana1
SEMPER FI0 -
Bases were silver Leupold, but the screws seemed soft. What I ordered and put on was another set of Leupolds, but in a matte black. I don't know for sure, but I think the silver stuff is softer metal. I am going to email leupold and ask if I send the bases and screws to them if they would take a look at it. Either way, I got to shoot my rifle this afternoon, and first time out it turned in a 5 shot group measuring 1.25" and that was with the cheap Remington stuff that Wal-Mart stocks. The rifle is a keeper [:o)].
Thanks Again everybody for the good feedback!
Life member NRA0 -
An shor now...twas th Luck 'O' th Irish......
Captain Kirk, Tech Staff0
Please sign in to leave a comment.
Comments
11 comments