Project Pistol- Star Super B - Update on progress

Amberjack Reels

May 15, 2003 06:22

I purchased the Star Super B 9mm for SOG. As mentioned before I was a little disappointed in the quality stated. Outside cosmetics show wear, probably from a holster. Inside it was filthy but maintained. I took the gun apart, not bad at all so far. I have soaked the firearm in solvent rinsed it off in freshwater and am using some of my reel tuning tricks on it. For reels I use a use a very fine grit polishing compound to smooth out gears and bearings. I am in the process if doing the guides were the slide rides.

I ordered new springs from Wolfe Gunsprings. The kit came with a firing pin spring. I feel I should replace it but have no idea how to get at it on the slide, any help would be much appreciated. I do have access to the schematic but it isn't much help.

I am looking at exotic species of wood for the grips, so far I am leaning towards Alder or Cherry.

Also I read an article about gun bluing touch ups. The article stated using a product called Oxy-Pho and 4/0 steel wool with great results. Since the blueing is worn, and if I use this product will it look like a patchwork quilt when I am done?? Any experience with this product?

Sorry if I come off like a dumba$$ but this is my first attempt at a semi auto. ( I had to learn the same way on reels)

Thanks in advance , you guys have been of great help.


Penn Saltwater Reel Specialist

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
<*))))><{ <*))))><{

0

• 

  MIKE WISKEY

  May 15, 2003 08:41

  i've got a couple of these and like them. the oxpho-blue and 4/0 steel wool will work fine but i like the dicropan t-4 even better. just be shure to degrease both the gun and the steel wool first (rinse the steel wool in alcohol a couple of times and let dry).

  0
• 

  Der Gebirgsjager

  May 15, 2003 08:51

  Had I known that we'd be revisiting the Star Super so soon I wouldn't have put mine back in the war chest!
  
  1. To take out the firing pin, you must first drift out the rear sight. This will then allow you to drift out the firing pin retaining pin, which is actually visible when looking at the bottom of the slide. The firing pin is not under much spring tension, and is unlikely to go zipping across the room, but when the retaining pin starts to move I'd put my thumb over the end of the slide to capture it. When you re-install it you'll note that the firing pin is captured by the retaining pin due to a notch on the side of the firing pin, and you'll need to press it in slightly against the pressure of the spring to position the notch correctly with the retaining pin hole before inserting the retaining pin.
  
  2. Your idea about how to smooth the frame/slide rails isn't too far off; most gunsmiths I know use a very fine grit valve grinding compound. I've even heard of using toothpaste! Your system should work, but my specimens have seen extensive use and are already pretty smooth. Don't forget to remove the polishing compound after you achieve the results you desire, or it will keep on working and you'll get sloppy instead of smooth. In other words, you can overdo this.
  
  3. Bluing: My specimens were apparently reblued by the Spanish Military at some point, and are in pretty good shape. Oxpho Blue is available from Brownells. This is interesting stuff, and I've used it for years on touch-up jobs with usually good success. Brownell's claims that you don't even have to degrease the part to get a good finish; but I've found that, like most things, more effort produces better results. Polishing the area and degreasing it before applying the Oxpho will give better coverage and color. Yes, it usually blends well into existing finishes. If you intend to use it as a touch-up, then you might do best to not polish, just degrease and apply the product, as color and appearance depend a great deal on the texture of the metal, and you wouldn't want to make the area to which you are appplying it smoother than the surrounding areas. Is this product suitable for doing an entire pistol? Well, I've seen it done with mixed results. It's hard to get an even finish over a large area, but if you use lots of the chemical (buy a big bottle!) and apply repeated coats, carding inbetween coats with 0000 steel wool, you can obtain satisfactory results. You might want to look into Blue Magic which has been highly touted by some on this Forum, but with which I have no experience. My first choice would be a well done, professional reblue in hot tanks.
  
  4. Grips: I degreased, recheckered, and applied a couple of coats of Birchwood Casey Tru-Oil to mine. They look nice. I have never found a source for ready-made new grips, but the custom grip makers will make almost anything for a price. I did buy a pair of smooth, fancy walnut grips for a Star Model A, but no longer see them advertised. If you're going to make your own, let us know how your project turns out.
  
  5. Miscellaneous: Why did you rinse your gun off with fresh water? Solvent evaporates, and steel doesn't like water. Hope you sprayed it down with something like G-96 Gun Treatment, Rem-Oil, etc. after the rinsing. I bet you're in the "wash the saltwater out of the reel" mode. Brand new barrels are available from Federal Arms Corp. if yours has a bad bore. Don't worry about asking beginner questions--everyone was a beginner at some point. Actually--that point would have been the beginning! Star Super B--a very good pistol.

  0
• 

  Amberjack Reels

  May 16, 2003 05:48

  Der Gebirgsjager
  Mike Whiskey
  
  Thanks for the information. Yes I am very careful about removing the polishing compound. Also when I finish rinsing in freshwater I use a blow dryer set on high heat to dry it off.
  
  Too funny about the saltwater reel mode. I will be building my own grips and will let you know how it turns out. Where do I find blue magic?
  
  Thanks again, I print excellent information like this and keep it in a binder for future reference.
  
  
  Penn Saltwater Reel Specialist
  
  ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
  <*))))><{ <*))))><{

  0

Please sign in to leave a comment.