Repairing firing pin
I have a Tangfolio GT-380 with a broken firing pin. The replacement pin that Gun parts has uses a firing pin retaining plate like a 1911. This one was retained by the extractor. I bored a hole through the body of the old pin where the broken pice was then fashioned a new pin out of an appropriate sized M-2 drill bit to slip into the body where it used to be. I tried soldering it into place with 95tin 5%silver solder, but it absolutely would not draw into the pin. Anyone have any ideas. Thought I might try to mig in. I don't want ot put a ton of money in it as it is a cheap gun.
Thanks in advance,
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?
Thanks in advance,
rich
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?
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If you have the old pin I can try machining you a new one to match, you will want to check your pin protrusion on whatever pin you get/build to ensure it doesn't puncture primers. If you get in a pinch let me know. I've built a lot of pins for oddball guns, it isn't fun sometimes[;)]
Love them Beavers
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Did ya try using solder flux?
Also, make sure you apply the heat to the firing pin, not the drill bit your using. Sort of like sweating copper plumbing.
Just a thought.
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I think owning a gun doesn't make you a killer, it makes you a smart American.
George Carlin0 -
Used flux, both parts good and hot.
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
You're gonna be better off letting kingjoey make you a new Pin...You're fighting a losing battle because your up against a CASE Hardened Drill Bit and a Soft Steel Pin....By the time you get done struggling with this it would be better to accept the offer...Why did the Firing Pin Break...Did it Snap the Tip of the pin off..?.....
Captain Kirk, Tech Staff0 -
Yeah, Broke the tip off, probably because whoever had it before me like dry firing their guns too much. Fired 49 rounds no problem, #50 went click, no tip left on the pin. I started making a new one today Thanks for the offer KJ.
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
Rich,
Use the next size larger drill shank and just drive it in all the way so that it will not drift in deeper in use. It may swell the shank of the pin and require a little dressing.
Cheers from Grayest California,
Ross0 -
i'm not as expierinced as most of you, but i would go to numrich and spend the 10 or 11 bucks for a new pin. just me, i prefer the easy way over what could be the wrong way. cody
if you're in my yard tonight, you'll be there in the morning0 -
Ameriskin, as stated in my post, Gunparts corp,-Numerich Had the wrong one for about $20 shape of pin and retaining method changed over the years of production. Thanks though
Why does everyone feel the need to burn that much powder?0 -
It might be even worse news than that! I had one in for repair about 5 years ago, and called EAA to try and get a replacement. I talked to their resident gunsmith and he asked for the serial no., then informed me that the design of the firing pin had changed 4 times (at that time)during the production life of the pistol, and the one I wanted was 3 designs back and unobtainable. I made a new one on my lathe and oil quench hardened it. Also made a drawing, which I may still have. Polished and installed it; as far as I know it is still in use. My advice would also be to have one made. Not a bad little pistol--I own one myself. Never could figure why they need two safeties. 0 -
my appolgizies, i misinterpreted what you said. i'll keep in mind to try and read more carefully. cody
if you're in my yard tonight, you'll be there in the morning0 -
besides a gunsmith, i'm also a tinsmith and over the years have had to do a lot of soldering. when soldering cleanliness is most importent, the two pieces have to be polished bright and degreased, the next most importent is flux, the stuff made for stainles steel works best ('allen' is one brand)the flux for copper pipes in next to useless, last is the solder itself 50/50 flows best brownell's hi-force 44 is pretty good. heat is importent too, but not to much. You should be able to solder without changing the color of the polished steel or at most just a pale yellow 'straw' color. 0 -
Just to add my 2 cents here- I have to agree with Mike Wiskey. The silver solder has to be 45% silver to be worth anything for hard parts/stainless steels. Silver solder fluxs are a must, and don't get any on places where you don't want the silver to migrate to. Also just enough heat to do the job with a heat scource that can get the metal to red.
"If you ain't got pictures, I wasn't there."0
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