Annealing
I've heard a bit about the process, but never really paid attention to it, mainly because most of my reloading was with straight-wall pistol brass.
Could someone please explain the process in detail and give me the pros and cons?
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Could someone please explain the process in detail and give me the pros and cons?
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0
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Need information on the PROPER PROCEEDURE for annealing brass for forming/reforming. All info will be greatly appreciated.
for GOD and COUNTRY
Vet0 -
Hi Matt,
As I recall, and my memory is not what it used to be, just dip the case neck up to the edge of the shoulder in moulten lead for a few seconds. Then allow it to cool. This resoftens the brass and releives the work hardening to help prevent cracking and neck separation.
I have never done it, and I don't think I ever needed to.
I understand that the process is used more for wildcats and fire formed cases????
I will watch this thread to find out how lacking my education probably is.
PS: Thanks for your past input, as usual, I learned alot.
Hawk
I would rather be tried by 12 than carried by 6!0 -
Molten lead can be used, the temp is right and very consistant but exposing the fingers to the heat source is painful and using pliers dos't let you "feel" if your overheating the case head.
Most people that anneal use a propane torch, keeping just the neck in the "hot zone" of the flame. Hold the case with your fingers, while spinning it in the flame, and drop it into a bucket of cold water as soon as the neck turns red. A darkened room is helpful to see the color change. It only takes about 20 seconds per case to do, and once every 5-7 firings is often enough for match shooting.
My brass is fully match prepped and weight matched, so I do anneal in order to avoid having to re-prep and weigh new brass as often.
If your not concerned about "bug hole" groups from your custom target rifle or your not reforming the brass into somthing radicaly different than the manfacture had in mind or if you don't have a obsolete cartridge you need to salvage brass for, you shouldn't need to ever anneal, just replace the old brass once in a while.
Some guys like a mag full of lead, I still prefer one round to the head.0 -
Matt45 I USE A PROPANE TORCH TO HEAT THE NECKS OF RIFLE BRASS TILL THEY ALMOST TURN RED. I SUPPORT THE CASE ON A LEE CASE HOLDER IN A DRILL AND HEAT WHILE IT IS TURNING, THEN LET COOL. IT IS TRIAL AND ERROR YOU EITHER GET IT TO SOFT AND YOU PUSH IN THE NECK WHEN YOU SIZE IT OR YOU GET IT RIGHT AND YOU CAN GET SEVERAL MORE SHOTS OUT OF THE CASE DUE TO NECK SPLITTING. ALSO TRIED THE TORCH METHOD WITH A PAN OF H2O JUST COVERING THE BASE OF THE CASE ONE THIRD THE WAY UP WHEN CASE TURNED RED I TIPPED THEM OVER INTO H2O THUS IT QUENCHED IT.DIDNT LIKE THIS CAUSE HAD TO DRY BRASS AFTERWARDS AND UNEVEN HEATING OF THE NECK. I HAD THE SAME RESULTS WITH EACH AS TO SIZING SO I DONT USE THE H2O METHOD ANYMORE. AS TO PISTOL BRASS WHY? BRASS FOR PISTOL IS CHEAP UNLESS IT IS HARD TO FIND. NEW BRASS FOR MOST RIFLES DOESNT COST THAT MUCH EITHER, BUT IF YOU LIKE A SOFTER NECK ON YOUR CASES, THIS IS THE WAY TO GO. PISTOL BRASS BEING SHORT MAKES ANELING TOUCHY ON THE RIMS ETC. I HAVE NEVER TRIED THE MELTED LEAD METHOD BUT I THINK THAT YOU MIGHT END UP WITH LEAD COATED NECKS DUE TO THE BONDING PROCESS. I DONT KNOW TRY AND SEE[:)]
PEACE THROUGH SUPERIOR FIRE POWER0 -
TAILGUNNER1954 THAT IS A BIG TEN X. SOUNDS LIKE HES DONE IT MORE THAN I LISTEN TO HIS ADVICE[:D]
PEACE THROUGH SUPERIOR FIRE POWER0 -
If you are gonna anneal brass, it's much better to let cool in air, not drop in water. The sudden change in temperature can shock the metal, and cause microscopic flaws.
Iraqi: "Is it true that only 13% of American kids can find Iraq on a map?"
American reporter: "Yes, but all 13% are Marines"
"I think life should be more like TV. All of life's problems ought to be solved within 30 minutes with simple homilies. All our desires should be instantly gratified. Women should always wear tight clothes, and men should carry powerful handguns. Of course, if life was really like that, what would we watch on TV?"
- Calvin (Calvin and Hobbes)0 -
It's only done to bottle necked cases. Rifle cases mostly. Make yourself a pan that holds water up to just below the shoulder of the case. Put a bunch of cases in so you can get the flame at each case easily. Use a propane torch and heat the neck until it changes colour. It doesn't have to be red hot. Then tip it over. It's not something you have to do regularly. Once a year if you're using the same brass a lot. 0 -
OK, this kinda confirms what I thought I knew, and fills in some of the gaps. Annealing basically extends the life of the brass.
The base reason I asked is I was told by a silhoutte(SP?) shooter that you will have to trim .223 brass (and other necked brass) less often if the necks are annealed. Sounds like this is true(?).
I think I remember reading the method Sunray described in a older Guns N'Ammo.
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