Moly Coated Bullets?
I bought a used rifle in 222 cal and the person I bought it from shot some moly coated bullets in it, I think they messed the barrel up, is their any way to get that stuff out? It started out as a Ruger varmet, has a Hart Barrel and the action has been tured. The hart barrel has a tight neck chamber and I have to turn the case necks down to .010 and I have special bench rest Die's to load with. can not get it to shoot under1/2" at 100 yards and then a flyer every once in a while. I talked to a bench rest shooter and he said that that moly stuf missed up 2 barrels, one of his and one of a friends, I did not get a chanch to find out what all he used to try to get that stuff out with. THANK YOU FOR ANY HELP
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Moly does not mess up barrels. Poor cleaning regimen will. Once moly fouls a barrel, it is harder to clean than non-coated fouled barrels. Use something like shooters choice or sweets 7.62, or montana extreme solvents. After soaking and brushing SEVERAL times with them, use Kroil and let it sit overnight in the bore. Dry patch that, then go back with solvents, and then again with Kroil. That should get it clean.
moly allows more firings before fouling affects accuracy, it also changes pressures because of it's lubricity characteristics. Try getting it CLEAN, and then firing a group. I doubt it will go from .5moa to .25moa just by cleaning, but stranger things have happened.
How many firings on the brass you are using? Did you mark the flyers and then reload and fire them to determine if they produce a flyer again? I have spent quite some time on the flyer issue on other sites lately, and have come across a multitude of contributing factors to flyers, and fouling was the least of them.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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JUSTC, Thanks for ans. you gave me something else to think about, I have some new cases So I will load them up today. I have been useing the old cases that came with the gun, Their all fire formed and I neck size only, all so will give the barrel a good cleaning again, I have one of those Kit's for fire lapping, What do you think about fire lapping? what do you think about J.B. compond? AGAIN THANKS FOR THE INFO ON THE CASES, I never considered that. 0 -
I would never fire lap a custom barrel. The barrel was hand lapped before it left the Hart factory, to a mirror finish. I have heard that rough factory barrels have improved after fire-lapping, but I personaly don't beleive in the process. JMHO
Your cases could have been neck sized enough times to need annealing, which will restore the soft and maleable properties to the brass. But before even considering that, what type dies are you using? are they a bushing die? Have you checked your neck run-out on your loaded rounds? If you have a tight necked chamber, and the runout is too great, you will see accuracy degrade quickly. I won't mention neck tension variations from non work hardened cases, because you stated that the necks were turned, and if they were sized in quality dies, that should not be an issue, but the neck tension discrepancies can exist with work hardened cases that need annealing. Remember, if his dies were set for his press, and you took them home to your press, they have to be re-set for your press.
Also, how did he seat the primers vs how you seat the primers? Did you uniform the pockets each time? Do some seat easy and others stiff? Is your OAL the same as his was?
I was given lots of help from reloaders with years more experience than myself recently, while I looked for reasons I was getting flyers in a .25moa rifle,...a 280AI at that!!! Give me the other info and I'll see if I can help to point out an area to look at.
Also, how many firings on the old brass?
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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This is great, Thank You again. The die's are Neil Jones bushing type, Primer seater is the same, one of those one at a time and adjustable for seating depth. the neck turner is a hand job and it is set to turn the necks down to .010. When I bought the rifle all the reloading stuff came with it. along with a lot of loaded rounds of differnt powders and slugs and differnt seating depth. I do not know how many times the cases have been reloader, their was about 75 of them, I think I will trash them, I have 150 new ones. As far as annealing I have had good luck and bad.
I am not new to reloading have been doing it for over 40 years and have a lot of rifles that shoot clover leaf's, this is the first time that I have got into a custom job. And again thank you for your time. And if I can ever be any help to you Just ask.0 -
Well, looks like we can eliminate your dies as the culprit[:D]
I'll be the first to ask for help if I need it. I don't relish the act of using up barrel life to figure out problems, and am always quick to ask for help.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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I have been cleaning the barrel for 2 days now, and have been getting a lot of crap out of it, Burnt powder no copper, about the time I think it's clean it aint. so will spend another day on it and go to the range tomorrow, Have loaded up ammo with new cases and old cases. I think the dirty barrel is the culpert. I have all ways used Hoppies and bore brush and then patches to clean barrels, but yeasterday I used a dry bore brush and patches, the black stuff keeps coming out, I think I have learned something new, and I'm 66 years old.(Hope I can retain this new Info)
I looked up your profile and found out that you live in Florida, I live in N.E. Oregon, This computer thing is something when people can comunicate like this, clear across the U.S.A. Again thank you.0 -
Actually, I'm in MD (the lesser communist, eastern side of the chesapeake bay). If you don't already have one, get a copy of sinclair international's catalog. www.sinclairintl.com
They have all the precision loading equipment you could ask for. The Montana Extreme, Sweets 7.62, and Shooters Choice will eat through the moly quciker than hoppes. The black you are seeing may be the solvent eating the brush. I just learned that if you don't neutralize the reaction right away, it will continually be dissolved after it is removed from the barrel. Try some kroil and let that sit in the barrel over night, then rebrush and run another kroil patch. It is used by the benchrest boys to clean moly barrels. It will draw fouling out of the expansion cracks, good stuff. I just started using it myself, and am impressed so far.
Let me know how things go after the barrel in de-fouled.
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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JustC Thanks for ans. I am going to the range this morning, in about 2 more hr's I will let you know how thing's went when I get back, From the amount of Stuff I got out of that barrel I expect It to shoot acc to day. I posted a question on useing dry brush in dry barrel before I read your post. It might be interesting what other people say. 0 -
Just got back from the range and the 222 does 1/2" at 100 yards, makes me want to puke. Going to adj the OCL and try some differnt Primers. Tryed CCI and Fer match. going to Winchester and some remingtons. 0 -
Have it borescoped before you waste any more time. If the throat is gone, set the barrel back and then go back to the original load.
What was the loaded neck runout? I am guessing that your tight neck chamber is particular about runout.
If you have turned the necks on new brass, and loaded to the original OAL that he gave you with the rifle, primers probably won't do it, not 2x the group anyway. Look at the rifle!!!!!!! leave the load alone for now.
bedding?
barrel touching the stock?
Throat?
Action screws at least torqued to an acceptable amt? Did you pull the rifle from the stock? If so, did you re-torque it in a sequence and not all at once?
are you sure of the scope?
why chase the game when the bullet can get em from here?....
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