Worn Serial Numbers, possible solution?
I'm looking at a Garand as a clunker, just something to blast some rounds through, no collector's value whatsoever. Problem is it's been refinished, even the manufacturer's name is heavily buffed, and one of the serial numbers is weak, the top is readable but (on one digit) might be either a 3 or a 7. I'm pretty sure it's a 7, but not sure I could talk someone else into believing it. It's pretty obvious this was just a bad polishing/refinishing job, very amaturish, and no intent to alter the number suspected. But the function seems fine, bore is fine, some dings in the wood and such, poor re-finishing. But for $225.00, I'm still tempted.
No, don't tell me I can x-ray the numbers and find out what it is, it just ain't possible. And I don't want to etch it.
Is it worth the risk?
To err is human, to moo is bovine.
No, don't tell me I can x-ray the numbers and find out what it is, it just ain't possible. And I don't want to etch it.
Is it worth the risk?
To err is human, to moo is bovine.
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I would try using a magnifing glass or microscope. You might pick up the metal impressions better that way. You can use an acid etch to bring out the compression of the metal during the stamping, But you have already vetoed that method. and you would still need image enhancement to read the results.
dcj100 -
What risk? Restamp/engrave what you believe the number to be above the original one. Leave the original number as you found it. I can find nothing prohibiting that. You are not altering anything, nor attempting to defraud. Anyone who wants to go to the trouble can verify the old number via x-ray or crystal ball. 0 -
Zyglo it!
Check a local welding supply house, there is a product called zyglo,
its a 2 part spray. Its used to check for welding & crack defects in metals, cost I think is about $20.
Walte0 -
Uh-oh, here we go again. I have been doing "zyglo" penetrant inspection for 25 years, and hold ASNT Level III certification in that, as well as radiography, ultrasonic, and magnetic particle (magnaflux). None of those methods are suitable for raising serial numbers.
By the way, it's a three part spray (for that method of penetrant), requiring the penetrant, remover, and developer.
But I do appreciate the response. Thanks.
To err is human, to moo is bovine.0 -
Custom gun builders often have to obliterate all or part of the original serial number to get the job done. What they do is simply re-stamp the same number either in the same place or in another place on the frame. Perfectly legal.
SIG pistol armorer/FFL Dealer/Full time Peace Officer, Moderator of General Discussion Board on Gunbroker. Visit www.gunbroker.com, the best gun auction site on the Net! Email davidnunn@texoma.net0 -
Re-stamping the serial numbers sounds like the best way to do it. I'm thinking I could just high-light the original numbers with an acid etch, and perhaps stamp them on the side of the receiver as well. Many Thanks!
To err is human, to moo is bovine.0 -
I watched a car theft guy raise the numbers on a motorcycle frame. Here is how he did it.
He had one normal 12 volt car battery. From the negative pole was a wire grounded to the motorcycle frame. From the positive pole was a wire with a large alligator clip on the end. In the jaws of the alligator clip was a wad of cotton.
He soaked the cotton in sulfuric acid and then swabbed it over the place where the number was. It came back enough to read it.
SIG pistol armorer/FFL Dealer/Full time Peace Officer, Moderator of General Discussion Board on Gunbroker. Visit www.gunbroker.com, the best gun auction site on the Net! Email davidnunn@texoma.net0 -
I have an early 1911 Colt that is what's usually called a "lunch box special". The spot where the original serial number was at one time attacked with what looks like a centerpunch. It was restamped and if you look close you can see that the original #'s are the ones that were restamped. I've shown this gun to numerous leo's and every one has said it looked ok to them.
Woods0
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