shaving lead
I have a Ruger 357 revolver and while out shooting this weekend a gentleman at the range noticed that my gun was shaving lead.
My question is what causes a gun to shave lead and what is the general cost of having this repaired?
Also, is there anything that I can do in the future to prevent this from happening?
Thanks,
Be proud, be AMERICAN and support our troops!
If you don't think you have it made here, try going someplace else.
P.R.
My question is what causes a gun to shave lead and what is the general cost of having this repaired?
Also, is there anything that I can do in the future to prevent this from happening?
Thanks,
Be proud, be AMERICAN and support our troops!
If you don't think you have it made here, try going someplace else.
P.R.
0
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p'003,
T'is a normal occurance with wheel guns.
When the bullet jumps from the forcing cone it(the bullet) reflexes slightly and as a consequence a little lead is trimmed as it enters the barrel.
Or...as nm mentions the cylinder may be out of alignment.
Ruger shouldn't charge.
Cost to cure: Shoot jacketed bullets.0 -
I wouldn't consider shaving lead to be normal in a revolver. This happens when the cylinder is not aligned with the bore. It could be due to excessive wear on the hand, bolt, trigger, or even the cuts in the cylinder.
If the gun were mine, I'd ship it to the Ruger factory so that all parts can be inspected & replaced if necessary. I wouldn't be surprised if they didn't charge for the repairs.
Neal0 -
you might want to make sure it is 'shaving lead'(not normal) and not just 'spitting powder'(normal). some of the slower pistol powders are noted for this (h110 comes to mind). shoot along side of a box (about 6" away) covered with paper and inspect the residue, if you have powder grains imbeded in the paper thats normal if you have holes in the box that's not. 0 -
A good gunsmith will have a set of range rods to check alignment, if alignment is OK it may be the forcing cone is too short, this can cause excessive particles of lead and unburned powder to spray the shooter, a few turns with a forcing cone reamer will cure the problem.A plus to having the forcing cone lengthend and opened is a boost in accuracy with lead bullets. 0 -
I'll ditto letting a gunsmith check out your gun. Chances are good that nothing is really wrong with your gun, but it's not a big deal to get taken care of if it is not working correctly.
Three Precious Metals: Gold, silver and lead0 -
I question if the gentleman that observed your pistol "shaving lead"
actually did see the event. If the pistol is really "shaving lead",
you have a problem. More than likely, as addressed-out of time.
Sounds unusual for a Ruger unless fired a zillion times. You may check
the arm and see if there is lead residue past the front of the cylinder. Lengthening/opening up the forcing cone "may" solve the problem, if actual. I would definitely not fire this arm unless it was
checked first. If you do, keep all body parts in Kelvar, wear eye protection and do not allow any parts of your body past the rear of the cylinder. Call Ruger. 1010 -
preedOO3,
I did not ask you previously-were you shooting .38 Wadcutters in the
.357?0 -
Mrgna,
The answer to your question is no, I was actually shooting .357 rounds through it.
I also had a second person (friend) with me who witnessed this. He was standing about six feet away behind me while I was shooting and felt some pieces of the lead hit him.
I did not ask you previously-were you shooting .38 Wadcutters in the
.357?
[/quote]
Be proud, be AMERICAN and support our troops!
If you don't think you have it made here, try going someplace else.
P.R.0 -
Hey Pree; BEFORE you spend money on a 'smith, try a Lewis Lead Remover. If you've never heard of it; it's a bronze screen with a rubber backer that screws onto a cleaning rod and cleans the residue and collected crap out of the forcing cone.
If you want, you can make your own with some screens from your local head shop-just be sure to buy a size that will be about 1/4"-1/2" larger than the bore. Then get a rubber washer for a faucet (the kind that's domed, with a hole in the middle like a pregnant lifesaver), put the screen-covered washer in the bore (screen side in) and screw your cleaning rod (down the barrel)into the hole in the washer. Lube the area liberally with a good lead/powder solvent and twist and pull for a while until you see METAL where your forcing cone is. You can put a little nut on the rod, or a jag to hold the washer on with.
Hope it helps!
If you know it all; you must have been listening.WEAR EAR PROTECTION!0
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